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Tomato, Yellow Pear Organic

Short Description

HEIRLOOM. Enormous numbers of yellow bite-sized fruits.

Full Description

This extremely old variety makes a vigorous plant that bears enormous numbers of bright yellow, bite-sized fruit. The flavor is deliciously tangy. Perfect for summer party hors d'oeuvres. Certified Organic Seed.
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Order: 1 Pkt. (100 seeds)
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.


Fruit Bearing This refers to the relative season when the plant produces fruit, or if it bears continuously or just once


Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

75 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

4-6 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

24-36 inches

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Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
There are two types of growing habits for tomatoes- Determinate and Indeterminate. Learn the differences of each type and why each might be best for your garden.
Watch video
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Learn the basics of planting tomatoes including staking and caging. Supporting your tomato plants will give your garden maximum growth and yields.
Watch video
  • Tomatoes

    Start Indoors Start Indoors Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
    Transplant Transplant When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
    Start Outdoors Start Outdoors Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
    Start Indoors Fall Start Indoors Fall Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    Transplant Fall Transplant Fall Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
    Start Outdoors Fall Start Outdoors Fall Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    First Date: Mar-07 - Last Date: Mar-21
    First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30

How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Fruit Bearing
Days To Maturity
75 days
Fruit Weight
4-6 ounces
Full Sun
24-36 inches
48-60 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
36 inches
Tomato, Yellow Pear Organic is rated 4.0 out of 5 by 12.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from easy to grow This is one of a handful of container plants I grew from seed that's thriving in the Texas heat. With little effort they grew and started fruiting quickly. I toss them in my eggs and salads so I can't share what the flavor is like on their own but nothing as terrible as some of the wacky comments here. These grew when I couldn't get cherry tomatoes to grow.
Date published: 2019-07-03
Rated 3 out of 5 by from For an Heirloom I was Disgusted Okay. So I'm a little picky when it comes to my garden. But if I wouldn't feed my family these tomatoes, you can be sure that I thought they were despicable (my family is also everything when it comes to judging my plants). So sorry if I seem like a Debby Downer. I love 99% of my produce and Burpee's products. I think this is a great company, my favorite out there. But I am just saying, these tomatoes were downright horrible. I put the very large plant in about June 5th, after the last frost date, but I still protected it with a cutworm collar and everything else. When the tomatoes came in (and I got maybe a dozen tomatoes from the plant the whole year and trust me, I know how to grow a tomato. There was nothing wrong with that plant. It was healthier than most). The soil was enriched and just the right acidity level for that plant.) they were bitter, inedible, and just overall terrible. I devoted much garden space to this plant and it will be YEARS before I ever try another yellow pear tomato plant or tomato. The seeds were unsavable for many reasons and that saddens me because I am a big seed saver. Just this year have I gotten up the courage to try to grow two RED pear tomato plants. (I have thirty+ tomato plants but this is a big venture for me to grow pear tomatoes). I truly hope the next time I grow these I will discover something WAS wrong with the last plant and they are actually good.
Date published: 2015-06-22
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Prolific, but... I grew these from seed last year because several years ago my mom and dad had some that looked like them that I enjoyed. My seedlings quickly turned into monster plants with tons and tons of beautiful little tomatoes. The only problem was they didn't taste good at all. They didn't taste bad, just...extremely bland. I actually started ripping them out of the ground when they were still loaded with tomatoes because I knew I wasn't going to eat any of them. That was easier said than done, as the root systems were amazing. I grew four kinds of tomatoes last year and this was the one I didn't replant this year.
Date published: 2015-06-22
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Wonderful Tomato This plant produced an enormous amount of perfect sweet yellow tomatoes! I love all Burpee's products
Date published: 2014-09-21
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Thriving Plant These tomato plants are HUGE!! I have 6 foot cages and they are all the way through the top of the cages and almost back down to the ground, and they are still growing!!! The tomatoes themselves are a bit smaller than I expected. They are cherry tomato size. They taste great, and I love the bright yellow color! There's always plenty of them ripe too, I can't seem to keep up with my picking. They will definitely be a staple in my garden from now on!
Date published: 2014-09-18
Rated 5 out of 5 by from I grew these as a kid. I grew these heirloom tomatoes in my Dutch Bucket hydro system and they did not disappoint. They were prolific and tasty my kids ate them right off the plant. Some of the plants were nearly ten feet tall.
Date published: 2014-08-07
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Don't Waste Your Space and Time on Yellow Pear! After mixing up my "Yellow Pear" and "Sweetie" tomato seedlings early on (careful labeling is so very important!), I planted them randomly in my tomato plot hoping for a good mix. I was excited to see the distinctive shape of the yellow pear forming on half the plants. The plants are super vigorous, and were soon loaded with tomatoes ripening faster than the Sweeties. The thrilling moment finally came when my first ripe tomato appeared. I popped it in my mouth expecting the taste that can only come fresh from the garden disappointment. I thought, "oh, well, it's just the very first one, maybe they need more time to really taste like they should." No. That's just how they taste: bland, mealy, boring. That is not what I sign up for when I spend my time caring for these little plants, making room for them in my limited space. The Sweeties are awesome and worth every effort. I got so mad at the boring Yellow Pears that I ripped them all up to make room for a possible crop of determinate, fast-growing tomato. It may be too late, but I don't even care. Those Yellow Pears made me so mad, I didn't even want to look at them. On the upside, ripping them up gave my Sweeties room to breathe and they are producing like crazy now.
Date published: 2014-07-07
Rated 2 out of 5 by from Colorful Very pretty tomatoes. Bright yellow as shown in the picture. Mine are over 6 ft tall. Taste is not as good as other cherry tomatoes I'm growing such as Honey Bunch, Snow White Cherry and Sweet 100. They get mushy when fully ripe. They split after heavy rains but so do other cherry tomatoes I grow. I won't grow them next year.
Date published: 2012-08-09
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