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Tomato, Sun Gold Hybrid

Short Description

Rapidly becoming the most popular cherry tomato of all time.

Full Description

One taste and you'll know why this gold gem gets such highs marks. The sweet-tart flavor is simply amazing. The beautiful golden-orange fruits are borne in large clusters. The flavor develops early, so this little tomato is great for snacking a week before full maturity, when it becomes very sweet and delicious.
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Item#:51490A
Order: 1 Pkt. (30 seeds)
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$5.95
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Item#:16261
Order: 3 Plants
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$18.95
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.

Cherry

Fruit Bearing This refers to the relative season when the plant produces fruit, or if it bears continuously or just once

Indeterminate

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

65 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

1 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

18 inches

Plant Shipping Information

Plants begin shipping week of:

Apr 27, 2020

Click here for Spring shipping schedule

Restrictions:

Item 16261 cannot ship to: AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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Video

Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
There are two types of growing habits for tomatoes- Determinate and Indeterminate. Learn the differences of each type and why each might be best for your garden.
Watch video
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Learn the basics of planting tomatoes including staking and caging. Supporting your tomato plants will give your garden maximum growth and yields.
Watch video
  • Tomatoes

    Tomatoes
    Start Indoors Start Indoors Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
    Transplant Transplant When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
    Start Outdoors Start Outdoors Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
    Start Indoors Fall Start Indoors Fall Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    Transplant Fall Transplant Fall Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
    Start Outdoors Fall Start Outdoors Fall Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    First Date: Mar-07 - Last Date: Mar-21
    First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Type
Cherry
Fruit Bearing
Indeterminate
Days To Maturity
65 days
Fruit Weight
1 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
18 inches
Height
48-60 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
36 inches
Tomato, Sun Gold Hybrid is rated 4.6 out of 5 by 143.
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Good tomato! Sweet but not as much flavor as I'd hoped. Easy to grow. Plant is 5 and a half feet tall. I use the burpee extra large cages with the extender.
Date published: 2019-08-09
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Growing well but bright RED These plants were started from seed from burpee. Now that they are nearly 6 ft tall and producing tomatoes it's obvious that they are not Sun Gold they are bright RED! They also have a very thick skin and undesirable taste. Guess I don't get any Sun Gold tomatoes this year. Extremely disappointing.
Date published: 2019-07-07
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Simply the best tomato We have tried many different tomatoes over the years, still have our favorites for sauces and sandwiches but this is the only one I make certain I have plenty of every year. Get started inside, buried up to its neck when planted, first week of July they usually start bearing and they keep it up the rest of the season.
Date published: 2019-07-03
Rated 5 out of 5 by from The only one I grow I started dabbling in growing plants from seeds when I retired 5 years ago. I typically grow tomatoes and peppers in containers and have experimented with different varieties each year. However, I stumbled onto Sun Gold my first year and have grown those every year. The past 4 years I tried other tomatoes but this year I just planted 2 Sun Golds. These are the best tomatoes! They grow well, provide lots of fruit, and are the best tomatoes I’ve ever tasted. I always grow extra plants that I share with friends and neighbors and they have come to eagerly look forward to getting these plants from me. I highly recommend them.
Date published: 2019-07-02
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Excellent Sun Gold I tried this tomato several years ago and continue to get them every year. We eat them like candy since they are so sweet. They do split if it rains, so I go out and pick them quickly and let them ripen in a bowl. My neighbor just asked me if I will be planting them again this year. I gave them out to many neighbors plus the mailman. I had so many tomatoes that I put them in a food processor and made sauce/gravy with them (left the skins on them). They are very hardy until frost. I grew them in an "Earthbox" that has a netting for staking. I live at the shore in New Jersey and have very little soil, mostly cement everywhere. The "Earthbox" has rollers so I can move them around to get the most sun. We love these tomatoes, so they are a standard in my garden.
Date published: 2019-05-14
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Family favorite! These are the tomatoes we plant every year. The flavor is fantastic, the skin is thin and not tough, they are an easy (and abundant) grow. They can be eaten like candy due to the low acid.
Date published: 2019-03-31
Rated 5 out of 5 by from best cherry tomato!!!!! I grow these every year here in Las Vegas and they survive-even thrive in our heat. Just water the heck out of them and they do fine. And the taste---absolutely the sweetest, best flavor cherry tomato ever! If you try them, you'll be as addicted to them as I am.Should be given 5 STARS!
Date published: 2019-03-17
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Brings joy to all who try I tried these one year for fun and was so impressed I started a number of plants the next year and gave them to people I work with. For those who don’t have a garden, just put them in a large pot on your deck or patio with a cage and they are fantastic. I now Get repeat requests to start the seeds for my co-workers. So sweet and wonderful in salads or for snacking
Date published: 2019-02-07
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