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Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid

Short Description

Earlier than Early Girl with larger fruit and improved yields.

Full Description

Cue the tomatoes. When it comes to tomatoes, we say the earlier the better! Multitalented variety has it all: earliness (five days earlier than standard varieties, two weeks earlier than tomatoes of equal size), flavor, size and yield. Round 5-6 oz. fruit are a full 1.5 oz. bigger than Early Girl, with a yield 20% larger. Plants feature exceptional disease tolerance (verticillium and fusarium).
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Item#: 50580A
Order: 1 Pkt. (25 seeds)
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Item#: 22361
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Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid
Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid, , large
Item #: 22361
3 Plants
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Item#: P22361
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Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid
Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid, , large
Item #: P22361
6 Young Starts
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.

Slicer

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

49-52 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

5-6 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

40-45 inches

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

55-60 inches

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Item 22361 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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  • Tomatoes

    Tomatoes
    Start Indoors Start Indoors Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
    Transplant Transplant When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
    Start Outdoors Start Outdoors Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
    Start Indoors Fall Start Indoors Fall Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    Transplant Fall Transplant Fall Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
    Start Outdoors Fall Start Outdoors Fall Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    First Date: Mar-07 - Last Date: Mar-21
    First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Type
Slicer
Days To Maturity
49-52 days
Fruit Weight
5-6 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
40-45 inches
Height
55-60 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
6 inches
Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid is rated 3.6 out of 5 by 19.
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Didn't work this year I have been growing tomatoes for some time and the past few years have been rough for me, which is why I chose this resistant variety of tomato. However, it has not performed well at all. The spring here was cool, but the plant grew, and set fruit before the other varieties I chose. However, that is when my luck ended. We had several days of blistering hot temps where I'm not sure the flowers could set fruit because the night temps were too high. The plant never became a robust vine, fruit was sporadic and anemic at best. The few I got from it, were small, good for slicing, but not as tasty. Not sure if the resistance to the diseases was worth choosing this variety.
Date published: 2018-08-19
Rated 4 out of 5 by from fast gower planted these last year in my fall garden , and they took off like crazy. Having never grown them before did not know what to expect . They were all over the place. I was tying them up and they kept on growing . ! plant put on 36 and made it through the hot dog days of summer. going to plant some this fall also after the hot weather is gone , been in the 100's here in tx.
Date published: 2018-07-31
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Had good luck First year with this tomato. Didnt water enough for a container garden but this tomato still produced. was first and best .lovely appearance and tasted good.
Date published: 2018-02-19
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Died after planted it in Burpee Seed Starting Mix I don't know if I like this tomato or not. I planted the seeds in Burpee Seed Starting Mix and they all died. The stuff is toxic.
Date published: 2017-08-14
Rated 3 out of 5 by from more disease prone for me started out healthy but we fight Septoria Leaf spot....and Summer Girl has it very badly, as of end of July, the only leaves left alive are at the very top. We trim off diseased stems, disinfecting clippers and hands between plants. Plentiful with green tomatoes but looks like the plant will not survive long enough to ripen them. Will stick with the more disease resistant Early Girl
Date published: 2017-07-27
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Poor size and slow to mature The average size of the 3 tomatoes I have so far, is about 2 1/2" around. They've been in the ground well over 60 days. Would not buy again.
Date published: 2016-08-10
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Acceptable, but not great My Summer Girl tomato plant did not produce tomatoes any earlier than my other tomato plants. I think my Super Sauce tomato plant was the earliest this year. Summer Girl has produced the greatest number of tomatoes of all my plants, but the size of each tomato is rather small. The plant has slowly succumbed to disease just as much as all the other plants. All in all, the tomatoes are fine, but nothing to rave about.
Date published: 2015-08-09
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Exceptional New Tomato Variety: Summer Girl Hybrid 8/4/2015 I've been buying and starting Burpee seeds since 1970 (don't think you were computerized back then#. Big Boy was my first super tomato and my first new hybrid was Big Girl; I really loved that girl ! However, she just seemed to run out of gas and I lost interest. A new neighbor moved in 3-4 years ago and he was growing Brandy Boy; it was very tasty, productive, great flavor and relatively early. He supplies the seeds and I grow them. I had been growing Early Girl for many, many years, but this year #2015# I got acquainted with Summer Girl Hybrid. She seems a little like my Big Girl. Summer Girl and I are getting along just fine. I started my tomato seeds 3/31/15 and harvested my first pair of Summer Girls 7/25/15. You "betcha" that's early for Wisconsin - and they were 8 and 9 ounces each, with super great flavor #little "acidy"# and the sturdy plants are loaded with beautiful green and blushing fruit #no, I didn't count them - too many#. Yes, we also had a really, yes really, rough Spring too, but I'm eating Summer Girls every day #10 days in a row# and the sun's shining. Oh, the best part: my wife loves them too !
Date published: 2015-08-04
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