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Tomato, Brandy Boy Hybrid

Short Description

A huge pink beefsteak tomato with incredible heirloom flavor and very high yields.

Full Description

One of the all-time classic tomatoes is now even better. Brandy Boy captures all the rich flavor of the beloved Brandywine heirloom tomato-long the flavor favorite among heirloom tomatoes-with a more shapely form, tidier growth habit, improved disease-resistance and bigger, earlier yields. Our new hybrid produces loads of large pink fruits up to 5 1/2" across. The fruits ripen evenly and share Brandywine's soft heirloom texture, thin skin and exceptional tangy-sweet taste. Tomato-lovers, Brandy Boy is for you. Indeterminate.
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Item#: 61101A
Order: 1 Pkt. (35 seeds)
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$6.99
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Item#: 61101P
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Item#: 25981
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$17.99
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Tomato, Brandy Boy Hybrid
Tomato, Brandy Boy  Hybrid, , large
Item #: 25981
3 Plants
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.

Beefsteak

Fruit Bearing This refers to the relative season when the plant produces fruit, or if it bears continuously or just once

Indeterminate

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

75-78 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

14 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

65 inches

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Item 25981 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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  • Tomatoes

    Tomatoes
    Start Indoors Start Indoors Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
    Transplant Transplant When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
    Start Outdoors Start Outdoors Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
    Start Indoors Fall Start Indoors Fall Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    Transplant Fall Transplant Fall Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
    Start Outdoors Fall Start Outdoors Fall Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    First Date: Mar-07 - Last Date: Mar-21
    First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Type
Beefsteak
Fruit Bearing
Indeterminate
Days To Maturity
75-78 days
Fruit Weight
14 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
65 inches
Height
75 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
36 inches
Tomato, Brandy Boy Hybrid is rated 4.5 out of 5 by 102.
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Only one that produced for me this year! I have been growing tomatoes for a while now, and the last three years have been rough on my harvests. This was the only one of the 3 vines I tried this year to produce. It has taken a while, but it has produced well and consistently. We had a cool spring, a few weeks of blisteringly HOT summer (not conducive to setting fruit) and then otherwise normal temps. The tomatoes are so flavorful, large (3/4 lb each) and the catfacing doesn't bother me at all. I suspect that is the Brandywine genes. I may have to use this one again next year and just be patient with my appetite.
Date published: 2018-08-19
Rated 4 out of 5 by from San Diego Plot Extremely dry and variant beach climate. We planted three plants on April 5th and had cool weather through late May. One died immediately and another never flourished. Harvested 20+ pieces off one plant after 115 days (late July early August. Fruit 90% ripened all at once. Lots of heirloom wrinkles and three-part folds. Some splitting due to watering (4 min. 3X / week with Rainbird bubblers). Good to very good taste. More watery than wanted. 4ft height with ring trellis support. Not a deep red color more pinkish rose with some yellow spots.
Date published: 2018-08-05
Rated 5 out of 5 by from If you grow tomatoes, you NEED Brandy Boy No garden should ever be without Brandy Boy. If you have room for 2 tomatoes, one should be Brandy Boy. Taste of Brandywine. Ease of growing and production of Big Boy.
Date published: 2018-02-25
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Near-perfect tomato! Wow! I've been growing tomatoes for a decade now, and this is probably the best all-around tomato I've ever grown! First off, I grew seven varieties of non-cherry tomatoes last year, and this was by far the highest-yielding. Seriously, for three months they would not stop producing tomatoes! Secondly, the tomatoes are quite big. As you can see from the picture, some of them are over a pound. And the plants seem pretty disease tolerant too. Now I admit I use tomatoes in cooking more than I eat them raw, but the flavor certainly seemed nice and heirloom-quality to me. The one issue with this variety is uneven ripening; in some of the weirder-shaped fruits, parts of the tomato are nearly overripe while other parts are still green. But that's common in large tomatoes; it isn't a Brandy Boy exclusive thing. Seriously, anyone who grows tomatoes should give this one a try!
Date published: 2017-12-31
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Big tasty tomato Glad I tried this variety. They taste like tomatoes used to. Mny of the tomatoes had cracking and catfacing , but I am still giving 5 stars. I would say this was the the start of our summer garden. It beat the sungold tomatoes.
Date published: 2017-11-19
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Intolerant of cool temperatures I lost this plant when other varieties withstood ner freezing temps.
Date published: 2017-10-13
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great Tasting Tomatos We only got 4 tomatoes from the 3 plants because the squirrels kept stealing them!! (Not the tomatoes or plants fault.) We finally stopped it and reaped the rest of the best.
Date published: 2017-10-02
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Amazing tomato! These are the best tasting non-heirloom tomatoes I've ever eaten and still going strong when other varieties are starting to get the various tomato diseases on my property. I had given up ever eating a perfect tomato again, but these are very, very close to the best. They are still big ugly tomatoes, which I like. They are producing about 4enormous tomatoes a week for 3weeks now. I anticipate getting 2more weeks. Next year I'll have 3 plants so my whole family can eat then to their hearts' content, as right now we are squabbling over them.
Date published: 2017-09-29
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