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Tomato, Atlas Hybrid

Short Description

First-ever beefsteaks for porches and decks in warm, sunny conditions everywhere.

Full Description

Pick big, tasty beefsteaks right outside your door! First-ever beefsteaks for porches and decks in warm, sunny conditions everywhere. New bushy, compact ‘Atlas’ plants easily shoulder their bountiful loads of one-pound tomatoes. This vigorous, neatly growing paragon of the patio combines modern performance with old-time flavor. Fruits deliver unsurpassed balance of sweetness and acidity. Semi-determinate plants.
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Item#:54350A
Order: 1 Pkt. (25 seeds)
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$6.95
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Item#:22860
Order: 3 Plants
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$18.95
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.

Beefsteak

Fruit Bearing This refers to the relative season when the plant produces fruit, or if it bears continuously or just once

Determinate

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

65-75 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

14-20 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

36-40 inches

Plant Shipping Information

Plants begin shipping week of:

Apr 27, 2020

Click here for Spring shipping schedule

Restrictions:

Item 22860 cannot ship to: AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
See all Burpee plant shipping restrictions for your state

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Video

Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
There are two types of growing habits for tomatoes- Determinate and Indeterminate. Learn the differences of each type and why each might be best for your garden.
Watch video
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Learn the basics of planting tomatoes including staking and caging. Supporting your tomato plants will give your garden maximum growth and yields.
Watch video
  • Tomatoes

    Tomatoes
    Start Indoors Start Indoors Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
    Transplant Transplant When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
    Start Outdoors Start Outdoors Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
    Start Indoors Fall Start Indoors Fall Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    Transplant Fall Transplant Fall Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
    Start Outdoors Fall Start Outdoors Fall Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    First Date: Mar-07 - Last Date: Mar-21
    First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Type
Beefsteak
Fruit Bearing
Determinate
Days To Maturity
65-75 days
Fruit Weight
14-20 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
36-40 inches
Height
50-60 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
36 inches
Tomato, Atlas Hybrid is rated 2.9 out of 5 by 48.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Huge tomatoes and plant is perfect for container 2019 was my second year growing the Atlas Hybrid. The tomatoes are huge (and perfect for BLTs). ;-) And the plant itself is compace, which makes it perfect for a container. I do recommend staking it carefully especially since the tomatoes are so heavy. They weren't joking when they said 1 pound. Wishing everyone the best gardening for 2020.
Date published: 2019-11-06
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great for my patio Just wanted to review this tomato at the end of my season here. I was more than happy with it. Got a good quality of huge tomatoes. Will definitely get this again. Stayed compact but was loaded with great BIG tomatoes that you usually don’t get growing on your deck.
Date published: 2019-10-05
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great producer for a determinate plant My brother gifted us two seedlings of the Atlas variety. Planted in late June direct in the ground. 75 days to harvest first tomato. Both plants remained healthy, topped out at about 4 feet and produced well. We've harvested 38.5 lbs (!!) off the two plants so far, with about 5 lbs more to go. Most tomatoes about 18 oz in size. The largest of all was just shy of two pounds. Good mildly acid flavor, meaty. Some cracking, a few uneven ripening, a couple a bit pithy, but nothing excessive especially for a beefsteak. We picked a couple early, still completely green, and they ripened perfectly indoors, in fact more evenly than some left on the plants. Pictured is the second half of our harvest, picked late Sept /early Oct in central Ohio.
Date published: 2019-10-02
Rated 1 out of 5 by from No tomatoes. Did not grow more than 3’ high. This plants produces blossoms but none have turned to fruit. It is mid September so I will probably pluck this plant
Date published: 2019-09-13
Rated 1 out of 5 by from great start but ultimately disappointed I had an almost identical experience to frankie22. "... I started this tomato from seeds. Nice healthy looking plants to start with. Planted in very large containers. Put one in the ground-small plant, looks terrible. It is in the same area with various other varieties that are huge, lush, producing plants. Container ones are producing big lumpy fruit. Leaves are brown, wilting. Has done this all along...." I have been able to ripen many of the tomatoes on the kitchen counter but the leaves are almost gone on my 4 deck containers. The ones on my patio are less far along (they get slightly less sun) but the leaves are also beginning to curl and turn brown. The rest of my vegetable garden - all started from Burpee seeds - is lush to say the least. Many of the tomatoes are cracked but I began to harvest just as they are turning yellow to orange so that I can use them. I would love a recommendation from Burpee for next year on another container tomato that is tasty, good-sized and a little more resilient.
Date published: 2019-08-11
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Poor fruit This a beautiful plant but the tomatoes are horrible. They are small with thick skins. I have problems with brown bottoms in the fruit.
Date published: 2019-07-29
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Amazing! This is a "Bonnie Bell" plant, purchased from a local Greenhouse. Planted it in a LARGE plastic flower pot. The soil is 3 or 4 year old Potting soil...used for flowers. It is a MONSTER! It's LOADED with blossoms and dozens of LARGE, tomatoes...BIG tomatoes. It looks like I'm going to have to use a chain saw to cut it down at the end of the season. I water it with a gallon of water a day and fertilize with "Jacks 20-20-20" every 3-4 weeks. About 3 weeks before we head South for the winter, I will root a cutting of it, as I don't trust the quality of Commercial seeds. This has worked for me for YEARS...had one "clone" I rooted for 10 years. The quality of the "Atlas" fruits remains to be seen. If it turns out to be as good as the plants/tomatoes look, it will be my "forever" container tomato.
Date published: 2019-07-20
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Don't bother I grew several from seed last year and they had great growing conditions. At first all looks great, but they don't produce much, and we didn't get one good one. They all rotted before ripening. Everything else in the garden went gangbusters so I wish Burpee wouldn't just blame it on temperature, pollination, etc. The fact is there are much, much better varieties out there. I'm re-writing this review for people ordering this year - I notice the removal of my earlier one star review. Hmmm.
Date published: 2019-04-10
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