Tomato, Big Daddy Hybrid
Bred from the all-time great Big Boy with improved disease resistance.
Days To Maturity
6-8 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
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How to Sow and Plant
- Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning will be necessary
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
- Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
- Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
- At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
- The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
- Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity78 daysFruit Weight15 ouncesSunFull SunSpread55 inchesHeight60 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time6-8 weeks BLFThin6 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Tomato, Big Daddy Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 153.Rated 5 out of 5 by DIYER from Wonderful slicer I grew Big Daddy this year for the first time and this may become my favorite tomato. I was most impressed by the firm meaty texture of this tomato. The flavor is also very good. The first flush of tomatoes were indeed an impressive size, easily as big as the description claims. As the season wore on however the tomatoes got smaller and were more like 6-8 ounces each. The total yield was a little lower than I'm used to, but, that was true with all my tomatoes this year. I suspect it was due to weather more than anything else. The July-August period was very dry and hot which hurt the yield. I kept the plants watered, but city water is never as good as rainfall.Date published: 2014-11-11Rated 5 out of 5 by Tootsie from Big Dadd is a big winner! This is the first year I have tried this variety, and it was fabulous! It grew as an indeterminate and produced fruit continuously from mid-July until fear of frost made me pick the rest Mid-October. Delicious fruits that rarely split. No disease or pest problems. Sometime I have problems with blossom-end rot, but not with Big Daddy. I will definitely grow again!Date published: 2014-10-24Rated 4 out of 5 by Sueb from Big Daddy Tomato I enjoyed raising these tomatoes. Disease resistance is important and they were very tastey. I would rate them 8 out of 10.Date published: 2014-10-16Rated 5 out of 5 by Scilla from The very very best 9 ft. tall, 6 ft wide and literally hundreds of extra large, delicious, perfect, completely disease free tomatoes. I started my garden with over 40 tomato plants in my garden including one Big Daddy plant which a friend had given me. 39 ended up diseased or unproductive and the Big Daddy was the only surviving plant and I didn't need any of the others because this plant was just simply AMAZING. It takes longer to produce but it was STILL producing green tomatoes the first of November and I have over 50 ripe ones inside at Thanksgiving. For a late season tomato, give this one a try...Date published: 2013-11-26Rated 4 out of 5 by Maryeveryday from Good tomato I had a great luck with this tomato. We had heavy rains early this summer in SE Michigan and the planting site for my tomato plant was close to my neighbor's yard which was basically under water for 6 weeks straight. The plant did well despite that problem, so I was very pleased. There has plenty of fruit on the plant as well. Flavor is good too.Date published: 2013-09-02Rated 2 out of 5 by Biking from Not So Good! I bought this tomato because of the disease resistance and just as the blossoms were setting they contacted tomato wilt. Had to quickly remove the plants and hoped no others were affected. The remaining plant did ok. The tomatoes did have a nice flavor and were a little smaller than I expected. Will stay with Steak Sandwich tomato and Big Boy -possibly try this one again in a couple years.Date published: 2013-08-30Rated 3 out of 5 by JayhawkGardener from It's tough to beat a Better Boy This variety was moderately successful in Northeast Kansas. The plants did not reach the size of the Better Boys nor have the heat resistance, but it was a fair performing plant with good fruits and flavor. I didn't see enough from this variety to replace Better Boys, but maybe I'll give it another shot in a few years.Date published: 2012-11-03Rated 1 out of 5 by MacsGarden from Poor Tomato This was supposed to be a Big Boy improved. 90 % of the Big Daddy had blossom end rot. My other 10 varieties I grew did not have a blossom rot problem this year. Will stick with Big BoyDate published: 2012-10-28