For 3 months, Alaska explodes in a burst of pure white petals that radiate from the soft yellow eyes. Under the flowers, there's a neat backdrop of the glistening, deep green foliage. The long-lasting, 3" across blossoms make great cut flowers. Mix Alaska with lady's mantle, salvias, star zinnias and coreopsis for a vibrant, dramatic display.
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This refers to the USDA hardiness zone assigned to each part of the country, based on the minimum winter temperature that a region typically experiences. Hardiness zone ranges are provided for all perennial plants and you should always choose plants that fall within your range.
The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.
Full Sun, Part Sun
The typical height of this product at maturity.
The width of the plant at maturity.
The time of the year when this product normally blooms.
Adverse garden conditions, such as heat or frost, deer or rabbits, that this product can tolerate well.
Shasta Daisies: Indoor Sow or Potted Plant Perennial
How to Sow and Plant
Shasta daisies may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or grown from potted plants.
Sowing Seed Indoors:
Sow seeds indoors 8 weeks before last spring frost.
Sow seeds thinly and evenly and cover with 1/8 inch of seed starting formula.
Keep the soil moist at 70 degrees F.
Seedlings emerge in 15-21 days.
As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 2 pairs of true leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots.
Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
Select a location in full sun with well-drained soil.
Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
How to Grow
Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination.
Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry. One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
“Deadhead”, remove spent flower heads to encourage continuous flowering and prevent seed development.
Pinch back to refresh foliage after blooming.
Remove and discard foliage after a hard frost in fall.
In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this mulch in the spring.
Divide every other year.
Shasta daisies are drought resistant, and make great cut flowers, and work well in beds, borders, containers and meadow gardens.
Full Sun, Part Sun
Deer, Drought, Rabbit
Beds, Borders, Cut Flowers
Shasta Daisy, Alaska is rated
4.9 out of
Rated 5 out of
Shasta Daisy 'Alaska' from seedI had a new sunny flowerbed and had always wanted Shasta daisies and decided to go with 'Alaska' as I'd always loved it. Started from seed directly in garden in spring of 2013. Excellent germination, I think at least 75% of the seed must have germinated which was more than enough. I really didn't bother to thin the plants as I figured I would probably lose some plants during the summer. That summer was extremely hot and dry but even after I forgot to water them for a week one time and the leaves were severely damaged, a little water and they survived. Did nothing special over the fall/winter. This spring every plant must have sprung into growth and I now have a flowerbed thick with Shasta daisies, the flowers at about 36" high. I will definitely have to divide the clumps this fall.
One thing I wanted to mention. A few people stated there were no blooms the first year or only a few. After reading up, I found that Shastas started from seed generally don't bloom until the second year. That was my experience, the first year the plant establishes itself, the second year it starts to bloom prolifically. If you're in a hurry for flowers you'll want to purchase a plant that's at least a year old.
Date published: 2014-05-25
Rated 5 out of
Bloomed first year (but started early)Love these- easy, vigorous. My little babies each made me one flower this summer (hey, they're trying, right?), and I can hardly weight to see what they do now that they are foot-wide mounds each. The plants never went dormant, even here in New England and a month of 2foot snow pack ala Winter Storm Nemo. They just kept on truckin', got to love it. Planted from seed indoors in February, in the ground in May. The ground froze in May too, but the seedlings didn't seem to mind. Excellent plant.
Date published: 2013-05-06
Rated 4 out of
Love it!!! but....I started these from seed in early February 2011. I had excellent germination success rate. Right now I have a dozen or so very healthy mounds, but no flowers. I didnt recall that stated anywhere so I guess Im pretty disappointed. In fact Burpee claims they will bloom the first season. Reading the reviews here, I see that is not the case. The green plants are healthy to be sure, but Burpee could be a little clearer. 4 out of 5 stars because I cant tell you how the plant blooms. Could just be me......
Date published: 2011-08-11
Rated 5 out of
Crazy about These Daisies!I grew the Alaska variety of Shasta Daisy from seed in late winter/early spring 2006. About 75% of the seeds germinated in my cold basement under plant lights. I planted six of the plants in the flower border on the side of my house in a mixture of compost and peat. I watered them almost daily for the first month to make sure that they had become established. This garden receives about eight hours of direct sunlight per day and faces the east/southeast.
By the first fall, the plants had grown into huge mounds of wonderful leaves (no flowers the first year)! During the second summer, these plants grew into beautiful specimens. They had anywhere from 40 to 75 flowers each. The flowers were 2-3" in diameter. There were enough to cut for indoor displays while leaving plenty on the plants themselves. The cut flowers often lasted over three weeks when I changed the water every few days.
My area is in Zone 6, and the plants flowered from about the end of June to the end of July. By the end of the second summer, the plants were over three feet tall and about three feet in diameter with the flower heads. Also, they were ready to split by the second fall.
Early in the flowering period, I had an aphid problem on two of the six plants. A treatment of natural dish soap and water did the trick, but one plant was too far gone by that point. Its flowers were small and shriveled. The other plant produced flowers normally though. Therefore, I believe that if you catch such an infestation in time, these plants are hardy enough to bounce back even during the flowering period.
I got a few compliments about how cute these daisies are. I would recommend the Shasta Daisy Alaska for perennial, mixed, and cutting gardens!
Date published: 2008-01-19
Rated 5 out of
shastaI loved this flower. It bloomed all summer, no work on it needed. So cheerful!
Date published: 2006-10-18
Rated 5 out of
Best of the Shasta DaisiesI grew my "Alaska" Shasta daisies from Burpee seed several years ago. I started the seed in pots on my front deck in spring and planted the resulting plants in the ground that fall. These are the prettiest of the several types of Shasta daisies I have growing in my gardens. The shape is elegant, the flowers are beautiful, and the plants are very hardy. I can hardly wait to divide them again this fall so I can have more of them growing in new spots next year.