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Phlox, David

Buy Any 3 Perennial Plants or Bulbs & Save 20%

Short Description

Our favorite white-blooming phlox.

Full Description

David was 2002 Perennial of the Year. It's our favorite white-blooming phlox and is covered with extra-large, fragrant blooms from July to August. Prefers moist well-drained soil.
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Item#: 20094
Order: 1 Plant
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$14.95
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Product properties

Zone This refers to the USDA hardiness zone assigned to each part of the country, based on the minimum winter temperature that a region typically experiences. Hardiness zone ranges are provided for all perennial plants and you should always choose plants that fall within your range.

4-8

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun, Part Sun

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

36 inches

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

24-30 inches

Bloom Season The time of the year when this product normally blooms.

Fall, Summer

Resistant To Adverse garden conditions, such as heat or frost, deer or rabbits, that this product can tolerate well.

Deer

Plant Shipping Information

Plants ship in Spring in proper planting time (click for schedule)

Restrictions:

Item 20094 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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Video

Introduction to Perennials
Perennials return year after year blooming on their own. Watch this introduction and discover how easy and rewarding growing perennials can be.
Watch video
Perennials Tour #1
Take a garden tour and see favorite perennial plants in a garden setting. In this video- Shasta Daisy, Ornamental Grass, Butterfly Bush, Echinacea and Hydrangea.
Watch video

Phlox: Bare Root or Potted Plant Perennial

How to Plant

Planting Bare Root Plants:

  • Select a location in full sun with a well amended soil that is evenly moist. Make sure there is good air circulation.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
  • The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
  • Dig a hole deep and wide enough to accommodate the bare root.
  • Set the plant such that the crown is at or just slightly below the ground level. Allow roots to fan out from the crown at around a 45 degree angle. Roots should spread out separately, like stretched fingers, from the crown, and not bunch up. It may be helpful to build a cone-shaped mound of soil in the bottom of the hole and spread the roots around it. It is important to set the roots such that the crown is roughly level with the ground.
  • Cover the roots with soil and tamp down firmly to get rid of air pockets. Fill the soil to just below the crown, where the top growth and leaves will emerge. Make sure all the roots under the crown are in good contact with the soil.
  • Water well to fully saturate the roots and soil.
  • Wait until new growth starts to appear before applying a layer of mulch.

Planting Potted Plants:

  • Select a location in full sun with a well amended soil that is evenly moist. Make sure there is good air circulation.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
  • The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
  • Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
  • Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
  • Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker.
  • Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination.
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time.  Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
  • Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry. One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
  • Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
  • After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer such as Garden-tone, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
  • “Deadhead”, remove spent flower heads to encourage continuous flowering and prevent seed development.
  • Remove and discard foliage after a hard frost in fall.
  • In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this mulch in the spring.
  • Divide in spring every three to four years to avoid overcrowding.
  • Plants may need staking; stake entire plant up to the flowers.

Growing Tips

  • To control height, delay bloom and increase the number of blooms, pinch plants back by ½ of their height in late spring/early summer.
  • Many gardeners do not cut back perennial flower seed heads in the fall, but wait until early spring before the new foliage appears. This provides food for wildlife over the winter.
  • Avoid overhead watering and divide clumps before plants get overly crowded.
  • Plants are intolerant of dry spells.
  • Harvest phlox flowers when 1/3-1/2 of the flowers in the panicles are open.
Zone
4-8
Sun
Full Sun, Part Sun
Height
36 inches
Spread
24-30 inches
Bloom Season
Fall, Summer
Resistant To
Deer
Ornamental Use
Beds, Borders, Cut Flowers
Planting Time
Fall, Spring
Genus
Phlox
Life Cycle
Perennial
Phlox, David is rated 4.7 out of 5 by 10.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Incredibly Hardy I live in zone 5b, purchased 4 of them and planted them last fall 2012. Upon arrival , they were about 2 inches tall , green and healthy. Winter of 2012/2013 was one of the worst (tons of snow/ temperature 2 F) I thought these tender newly established plants will never make it. This spring I am amazed that they popped out of the mulch and they look green and healthy as I received them. Can't wait until they grow tall and bloom Thanks Burpee for the excellent quality
Date published: 2013-04-11
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Love Phlox! I have 5 of these growing along the East side of the house. They get half a day of scorching hot sun in the summer and lots of snow and freezing in the winter. I planted them in 07 and have never divided them, but will definitely be doing that next Spring. I have never had any problems with them of any kind, other than wishing I had enough for the whole border, and next Spring I think I will! They are highly fragrant and attract Hummingbird-Moths and other butterflies. The flower clusters are so heavy that they do bow a little, not so much that they need staking, but you could if you like more perfection. I bought the Davids in gallon containers and they did well from the start. I ordered some dormant starts this Spring of other phlox that looked dead when they arrived, but they have all survived, and I'm telling you they have survived through all kinds of hardship. A friend gave me some starts of an unknown phlox years ago and they are doing well on the South side of the house. I divided them once and had no problems. All I did that time was plumge my shovel into the center of the plant and dig that part out and plant it somewhere else and fill in the hole they came out of. Both the mother plant and the transplant did well. I'm going to be more careful with the Davids, since they were pretty spendy. So I am a big fan of phlox!
Date published: 2011-07-12
Rated 2 out of 5 by from I Love David. David Hates Me. Thanks to the 1-year guarantee, I had three chances to grow David successfully. The first year, it never grew, but didn't die until the end of growing season. I was told it was an unusually wet and cold spring. Last year, it grew along with the two Blue Paradise Phlox, but died after blooming once. I thought it just did that, so thought nothing of it, until it didn't grow this spring. This year, I grew it in its own large container. It bloomed, and then the flowers died off. Remarkably, it rebloomed from the exact same buds. It was beautiful and smelled wonderful. Then it died - completely. I've asked Burpee and others what I'm doing wrong, especially knowing it's supposed to be easy to grow. I did nothing wrong all three times, and actually live in the same area it was first created. I'd love it again, but not if it's going to keep dying on me. I got my money back. I have no idea why it kept dying on me. I do understand why everyone would want one. I find it hard to believe all the raves about how easy it is to grow.
Date published: 2008-09-06
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Phlox David I have the white David Phlox and love it for its disease resistance, it's fragrance and also, for the long length of time that it blooms. For a few years I had one in a bed and had a really hard time keeping rabbits or something from nibbling it down just about as soon as it came up in the springtime, until I put a protective apparatus around it. Now, though, I have one in a very large pot on the patio, planted in a good potting soil mixture, and just move it around wherever I want it. I would highly recommend it for the reasons stated, and I've raised quite a few flowers over the years. This is one that I would want if I had to start over again.
Date published: 2007-08-11
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Strongest Phlox Phlox David really lives up to its reputation as the most disease- and mildew-resistant phlox. The blossom clusters are lush and full and if you dead-head, side shoots with buds will appear and bloom yet again. Some may require staking because the blooms are so plentiful and heavy, but for the most part, David's stems are strong and can stand tall even in full bloom. David is the healthiest phlox I have planted in terms of height, strength, disease-resistance and flowering.
Date published: 2007-08-10
Rated 5 out of 5 by from I have been pleased the most with my phlox. Every year it has bloomed bright white puffs of flowers. Being that it is growing in a container, it has multiplied itself not only in it's own conatiner, but I have found other phlox plants growing around the terrace in other containers.
Date published: 2006-10-17
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Phlox David I have had great luck with this Phlox. The stems doubled and tripled in the first year, and although I have heard many complain about powdery mildew on them, I kept them well watered and have had no sign of it.
Date published: 2006-08-07
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Prettiest Flowers in my Garden Of all the flowers in my garden, my Phlox are the prettiest and most noticable. I love the big fluffy blooms that last all summer, when most other plants look dry and tired.
Date published: 2006-08-06
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