Lavandula angustifolia, Lady is easy to grow from seed English lavender. Burpee bred herb will flower the first year just 90 days after sowing. So beautiful with its compact habit, outstanding flowers and fragrance, it's excellent for edging, low hedges and containers. Lavender is an easy to grow; evergreen shrub that produces masses of beautifully scented flowers above green or silvery-grey foliage. This drought-tolerant plant thrives in a full sun in the perennial border, container, herb or rock gardens.
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The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.
Days To Maturity
The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.
This refers to whether a plant is an annual, biennial or perennial. Annuals complete their life cycles in one year; biennials produce foliage the first year and bloom and go to seed the second year; perennials can live for more than two years.
The typical height of this product at maturity.
The width of the plant at maturity.
Additional ways in which the product may be used in the garden.
Lavender may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or planted as a potted plant.
Sowing Seed Indoors:
Sow lavender seeds indoors 6-10 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit.
Sow seeds ¼ inches deep in seed-starting formula in a south facing window or under grow lights until seedlings emerge.
Keep the soil moist at 70-80 degrees F
Seedlings emerge in 14-28 days
As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
Select a location in full sun with rich, well drained, moist organic soil.
Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
Set the plants 12 inches apart.
Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
Use the plant tag as a location marker.
Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For herbs, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It’s best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Lavender leaves and flowers are valued for their fragrance. Use them fresh or dried to make a soothing tea; add dried parts to potpourris.
Harvest when the flower color is the most brilliant and the scent is the strongest. Harvest in the morning when the plant is dry. Cut at the base of the flower stem just above the leaves. Gather stems into a bunch and rubber band together and hand upside down in a warm dry location out of direct sunlight. Allow to dry for 2-4 weeks.
Either keep the flowers whole or brush the flowers off to make sachets.
Days To Maturity
Lavender, Lady is rated
2.6667 out of
Rated 1 out of
5 Packets. Zero plants, bad batch for 2016?Planted indoors according to directions in a Window greenhouse. all 5 new (2016) Sell by 11/20/16 packets in great soil, all the Sunflowers, etc came up. after 6 weeks just damp dirt from the lavender..
Thing is, these arent cheap seeds. and not a single one sprouted.
Wont buy burpee seeds again.
Date published: 2016-05-17
Rated 2 out of
Lavender is really hard to start from seedMine all eventually succumbed to dampening off. It was not a great experience.
Date published: 2014-11-18
Rated 5 out of
excellent plantsThese were excellent plants but they never made it to maturity. They died out due to damage to the bed. I have repaired the bed and I will be replanting this spring.
Date published: 2014-09-17
Rated 4 out of
Very happy with selection.Planted the seeds indoors last year and transplanted them to a large pot. Forgot about them and found them thriving later in June. They have survived this year's brutal winter - actually stayed green all winter. Very pleased.
Date published: 2010-03-08
Rated 2 out of
Love the fragrance; Tolerate the appearanceI bought 9 of the plants and only 4 of them are still with me. I am in zone 6 in MA so I am within the hardiness range listed above. I planted the lavender in full sun, gave them adequate but not too much moisture, and basically followed all of the other guidelines I could find on cultivating lavender. 5 of the plants grayed up and died within 2 months. The 4 remaining plants are really thriving, though - the fragrance is intoxicating! But I can't recommend this because of the less than 50% success rate I have experienced. Also, the plants that I have do not look as upright and gorgeous as in the photo. They're sprawling lazily about and the bloom is not nearly as full. Nonetheless the leafy parts are very healthy, vigorous and highly fragrant. My best guess is that this particular garden bed has soil that is too fertile for lavender. But soil that is too fertile shouldn't outright kill a plant. This is not a repeat order for me.
Date published: 2008-11-08
Rated 1 out of
Not worth itThese germinated well but then were spindly and weak. they took weeks and weeks getting their second set of leaves. I did everything the books said to do with this lavender only to have a miserable experience.
Date published: 2008-07-31
Rated 3 out of
Lovely Idea, Not So Great SeedI love lavender and use it extensively in the home, so growing it is an imperative. Wanting to balance different textures and have some faster blooming plants, I got a packet of the Lady Lavender seeds to test.
The germination rate was actually quite poor for this packet and of those that did make it to seedling stage, their growth was not impressive. While they are blooming as promised, these are paltry blooms not worth harvesting and the plant seems to have expended the energy it would have used toward growth during this time.
Lavender has always been very tolerant of our blazing hot sun and hot, hot days of summer, but this plant is far less so than the true lavender I've been growing. I've had to relocate it to an area that misses the mid-day sun.
The smell of the plants is just as delightful, however, and there is a nice contrast in texture with other lavender cultivars that draws the eye and encourages hands to brush the foliage.
Since these plants are easily kept year round here, it may be that the second year is the one that lets them really shine and I'll update my review then.
Date published: 2008-07-15
Rated 1 out of
No luck from seedAfter starting indoors and accustoming outside as recommended, outside for a week they all died in the Dallas sun. I tried them in Idaho the year before with the same results only 3 sprouted even in the indoor peat pots. I'm really wanting some lavender though so I think buying from plant is my last option.