The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.
Days To Maturity
The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.
This refers to whether a plant is an annual, biennial or perennial. Annuals complete their life cycles in one year; biennials produce foliage the first year and bloom and go to seed the second year; perennials can live for more than two years.
The typical height of this product at maturity.
The width of the plant at maturity.
Additional ways in which the product may be used in the garden.
Lavender may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or planted as a potted plant.
Sowing Seed Indoors:
Sow lavender seeds indoors 6-10 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit.
Sow seeds ¼ inches deep in seed-starting formula in a south facing window or under grow lights until seedlings emerge.
Keep the soil moist at 70-80 degrees F
Seedlings emerge in 14-28 days
As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
Select a location in full sun with rich, well drained, moist organic soil.
Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
Set the plants 12 inches apart.
Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
Use the plant tag as a location marker.
Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For herbs, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It’s best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Lavender leaves and flowers are valued for their fragrance. Use them fresh or dried to make a soothing tea; add dried parts to potpourris.
Harvest when the flower color is the most brilliant and the scent is the strongest. Harvest in the morning when the plant is dry. Cut at the base of the flower stem just above the leaves. Gather stems into a bunch and rubber band together and hand upside down in a warm dry location out of direct sunlight. Allow to dry for 2-4 weeks.
Either keep the flowers whole or brush the flowers off to make sachets.
Days To Maturity
Lavender, English is rated
3.1111 out of
Rated 4 out of
Pepper Path from
Beginner's luck?i put many English Lavender seeds in a small tray of potting soil about 6-8" from my grow lights, temps at 75 -80 degrees. 3 weeks later, I have 5 small plants that are growing their true leaves (30% yield or so). I will transplant to pots soon and am hopeful.
Date published: 2016-04-02
Rated 1 out of
Terrible GerminationOut of 30 seeds, only 2 germinated, and have remained small and spindly. I have grown lavender for years, and this is the worst.
Date published: 2015-05-19
Rated 5 out of
Beautiful flower!!I started them inside as soon as I received my order! What a beautiful plant! Just exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks!!
Date published: 2014-09-21
Rated 5 out of
I planted these several years ago,and I was very successful with this product. I am surprised that most people had a hard time germinating these and had such bad ratings. I had no problem at all germinated this product, and the outcome was great. I had a beautiful lavender plant.Why this plant had such bad ratings? Well,I don't know.I had no trouble at all with this product.I will definitely plant this again, and see if I have good germination rates again,which many people had problems with.
Date published: 2014-02-16
Rated 4 out of
Slow and SteadyI grew these from seed starting in Febuary 2011. I had pretty good success considering the reviews here. I germinated in seed formula soil in a shallow 8" pan and placed them on a table in a sunny window with a regular house lamp on at night. I would say a third of the seeds I sowed germinated. I babied these for some time with a mister before finally separating them and putting them outside. Right now I have about 10 plants, one of which is actually blooming which I did not expect this season. I really think I would have had even better success had I of germinated in very small individual containers like egg cartons. I think the problem here is very small seeds make for very delicate seedlings. I lost more goofing and separating them than anything else. I have some in containers on my back porch, which is very sunny, but they are shielded by a table and seem to really like the location (getting direct sun off and on through out the day). Not for the beginner or the impatient, but I am enjoying them so Im giving 4 stars.
Date published: 2011-08-11
Rated 2 out of
difficult germinationThis was very difficult to germinate as other reviewers have said. The ones that did germinate were too stringy to be viable for transplant. Since starting them early failed, I tried direct seeding to outdoor pots in May but none germinated. I bought an already started provence lavender plant instead which after two years has still not flowered.
I think the only way to successfully grow these plants would be if you had a seedling heat mat. I think part of the problem was that my house is too cold in winter (only about 60-65 degrees F). You would also need a grow light large enough so that all of your seedlings could fit directly under the light at all times.
Date published: 2011-03-28
Rated 3 out of
Difficult to GerminateThanks for the other reviews. My 8 yr old daughter, 10 yr old son, and me planted seeds in a 72 hole seed tray with 48" shop fixture with fluorescent lighting overhead. On. Jan. 18th, my daughter planted 48 snap dragon seeds (2 per hole). I planted 48 wild flower seeds (2 per hole) and my son planted 48 lavender seeds. Since then, my son only had 3 lavender seeds germinate in the past 3 weeks!!! However, we have 37 wildflowers, which we've put in pots because they are already 2 - 3" high. We also have 33 snapdragons (1") which are still in the seed tray. About a week ago, we seeded 48 petunias, and 3 have already sprung up, and 15 begonias, with 10 of those emerging. My poor son is a bit disenchanted, but oh well, now we know that lavender is difficult!! Thanks!
Date published: 2011-02-05
Rated 3 out of
Good luck getting these to germinateI was bored one day do I decided to give growing lavender a shot. I tried every trick in the book, one of which I have has a nearly perfect success rate with but I could not get consistent germination. I know that lavender is notoriously difficult to grow from seed, but I wasn't expecting 1 of my 15 seeds to produce a plant. Nonetheless I ended up with one love little lavender plant. I planted it in March and it's about 3 inches tall and about 2 inches wide at this point. It is doing well in a pot outside. Can't wait until it gets a little older and starts flowering.
If you can get these things to germinate they are lovely, fast growing plants.