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Lavender, English

Short Description

Fragrant flowers, aromatic leaves.

Full Description

The dried flowers and leaves repel moths and can be used in sachets. Loves full sun. Start seed early indoors and set outside. Plants tolerate light frost.
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Item#: 61549A
Order: 1 Pkt. (1000 seeds)
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$4.95
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Product properties

Sun

Full Sun

Days To Maturity

90-200 days

Life Cycle

Perennial

Height

30 inches

Spread

12-18 inches

Additional Uses

Fragrant

Sow Method

Indoor Sow

Planting Time

Spring, Summer

Thin

18 inches

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  • Lavender may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or planted as a potted plant

    Sowing Seed Indoors:

    • Sow lavender seeds indoors 6-10 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit.
    • Sow seeds ¼ inches deep in seed-starting formula in a south facing window or under grow lights until seedlings emerge.
    • Keep the soil moist at 70-80 degrees F
    • Seedlings emerge in 14-28 days
    • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
    • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
    • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

    Planting in the Garden:

    • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil.
    • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
    • The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
    • Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
    • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
    • Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
    • Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
    • Use the plant tag as a location marker.
    • Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
    • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination. 
    • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time.  Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
    • Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry.  One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
    • Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary.  Good air movement is also important.
    • After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer such as Garden-tone, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
    • In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this mulch in the spring.
    • Do not divide lavender, it is a small woody shrub rather than a spreading herbaceous perennial.
    • Prune out dead wood as needed.
    • Lavender may be grown in the herb garden, or perennial border, in containers, as a hedge.
    • Flowers and sprigs are perfect for dried arrangements, or used for culinary purposes and crafts.
  • Sun
    Full Sun
    Days To Maturity
    90-200 days
    Life Cycle
    Perennial
    Height
    30 inches
    Spread
    12-18 inches
    Additional Uses
    Fragrant
    Sow Method
    Indoor Sow
    Planting Time
    Spring, Summer
    Thin
    18 inches
  • Lavender, English is rated 3.0 out of 5 by 8.
    Rated 1 out of 5 by from Terrible Germination Out of 30 seeds, only 2 germinated, and have remained small and spindly. I have grown lavender for years, and this is the worst.
    Date published: 2015-05-19
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Beautiful flower!! I started them inside as soon as I received my order! What a beautiful plant! Just exactly what I was looking for!! Thanks!!
    Date published: 2014-09-21
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from I planted these several years ago,and I was very successful with this product. I am surprised that most people had a hard time germinating these and had such bad ratings. I had no problem at all germinated this product, and the outcome was great. I had a beautiful lavender plant.Why this plant had such bad ratings? Well,I don't know.I had no trouble at all with this product.I will definitely plant this again, and see if I have good germination rates again,which many people had problems with.
    Date published: 2014-02-16
    Rated 4 out of 5 by from Slow and Steady I grew these from seed starting in Febuary 2011. I had pretty good success considering the reviews here. I germinated in seed formula soil in a shallow 8" pan and placed them on a table in a sunny window with a regular house lamp on at night. I would say a third of the seeds I sowed germinated. I babied these for some time with a mister before finally separating them and putting them outside. Right now I have about 10 plants, one of which is actually blooming which I did not expect this season. I really think I would have had even better success had I of germinated in very small individual containers like egg cartons. I think the problem here is very small seeds make for very delicate seedlings. I lost more goofing and separating them than anything else. I have some in containers on my back porch, which is very sunny, but they are shielded by a table and seem to really like the location (getting direct sun off and on through out the day). Not for the beginner or the impatient, but I am enjoying them so Im giving 4 stars.
    Date published: 2011-08-11
    Rated 2 out of 5 by from difficult germination This was very difficult to germinate as other reviewers have said. The ones that did germinate were too stringy to be viable for transplant. Since starting them early failed, I tried direct seeding to outdoor pots in May but none germinated. I bought an already started provence lavender plant instead which after two years has still not flowered. I think the only way to successfully grow these plants would be if you had a seedling heat mat. I think part of the problem was that my house is too cold in winter (only about 60-65 degrees F). You would also need a grow light large enough so that all of your seedlings could fit directly under the light at all times.
    Date published: 2011-03-28
    Rated 3 out of 5 by from Difficult to Germinate Thanks for the other reviews. My 8 yr old daughter, 10 yr old son, and me planted seeds in a 72 hole seed tray with 48" shop fixture with fluorescent lighting overhead. On. Jan. 18th, my daughter planted 48 snap dragon seeds (2 per hole). I planted 48 wild flower seeds (2 per hole) and my son planted 48 lavender seeds. Since then, my son only had 3 lavender seeds germinate in the past 3 weeks!!! However, we have 37 wildflowers, which we've put in pots because they are already 2 - 3" high. We also have 33 snapdragons (1") which are still in the seed tray. About a week ago, we seeded 48 petunias, and 3 have already sprung up, and 15 begonias, with 10 of those emerging. My poor son is a bit disenchanted, but oh well, now we know that lavender is difficult!! Thanks!
    Date published: 2011-02-05
    Rated 3 out of 5 by from Good luck getting these to germinate I was bored one day do I decided to give growing lavender a shot. I tried every trick in the book, one of which I have has a nearly perfect success rate with but I could not get consistent germination. I know that lavender is notoriously difficult to grow from seed, but I wasn't expecting 1 of my 15 seeds to produce a plant. Nonetheless I ended up with one love little lavender plant. I planted it in March and it's about 3 inches tall and about 2 inches wide at this point. It is doing well in a pot outside. Can't wait until it gets a little older and starts flowering. If you can get these things to germinate they are lovely, fast growing plants.
    Date published: 2010-08-06
    Rated 1 out of 5 by from Very bad germination! I wasn't able to get a single seed to germinate. I tried three times indoors and twice outdoors and not a single seed germinated. I will be asking for a refund as this is completely ridiculous.
    Date published: 2010-06-09
    • 2016-02-11T06:03CST
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