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Tomato, Damsel Hybrid

Short Description

Proven disease resistance of late blight, verticillium wilt and nematodes.

Full Description

Dainty, compact, indeterminate plants yield pink, round, beefsteaks with beautiful late blight resistance. ‘Damsel’ offers outstanding heirloom flavor with uniform fruits in the 12 oz. range. Combined disease package of late blight, verticillium wilt and nematode resistance guarantee harvests starting 75 days from transplant.
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Item#: 58920A
Order: 1 Pkt. (15 seeds)
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$5.99
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Item#: 22937
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$17.99
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Tomato, Damsel Hybrid
Tomato, Damsel Hybrid, , large
Item #: 22937
3 Plants
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.

Beefsteak

Fruit Bearing This refers to the relative season when the plant produces fruit, or if it bears continuously or just once

Indeterminate

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

70-75 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

10-12 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

5-6 feet

Restrictions:

Item 22937 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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  • Tomatoes

    Tomatoes
    Start Indoors Start Indoors Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
    Transplant Transplant When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
    Start Outdoors Start Outdoors Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
    Start Indoors Fall Start Indoors Fall Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    Transplant Fall Transplant Fall Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
    Start Outdoors Fall Start Outdoors Fall Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    First Date: Mar-07 - Last Date: Mar-21
    First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Type
Beefsteak
Fruit Bearing
Indeterminate
Days To Maturity
70-75 days
Fruit Weight
10-12 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
5-6 feet
Height
5-6 feet
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
2 feet
Tomato, Damsel Hybrid is rated 4.6 out of 5 by 5.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Excellent plants! I bought 3 of these plants in the spring and planted them outdoors in grow bags in late May. All 3 plants have surpassed my expectations by far, growing 7-8 feet tall and resembling small trees. I got my first ripened tomato at the very end of July here in southern NJ, and the plants are continuing to produce newly ripened tomatoes almost daily despite being attacked by a groundhog that visits too often for my liking. Between these 3 plants, I have harvested 40 tomatoes thus far. They are smaller than I had expected, closer to 5-6 ounces each, but this is likely due to my error planting them in 5-gallon grow bags when they should be in bags double the size or larger. I will definitely buy these again next year, and I can only imagine the output with more room to grow in appropriately sized containers.
Date published: 2018-08-29
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great taste, steady supply I missed Gardening for a few years due to job demands and I started late in planning so I ordered plant. I normal start my own from seed, I ordered a few different type this year. I was impressed with the quality of the plant when received. I left them in the shipping plastic container, watered them threw the holes (about 2 weeks), as the weather and work didn't allow me plant right away. I've never tried a Pink variety, but like the description of Damsel, it was spot on. I live in NC now, with heavy clay soil and with typical high heat and sparse rain fall most summers, in past years. I've had past poor production due to blossom end rot - this year I planted my tomato selection in raised beds. The Damsel sightly out produced Rutgers, ripened sooner by a few weeks and had great taste, somewhat sweet fruit compared to Rutgers, I prefer the Rutgers taste (tomato tang), my wife loves Damsel better and insist I get it again. We'll see as I wear the gardening plants, I mean pants :)
Date published: 2018-08-04
Rated 5 out of 5 by from So far so good. I'm a market grower and for the last 5 or so years I've only grown heirloom and open pollinated tomatoes. I've been strictly non hybrid in my entire garden for those 5 years. However, last year all of my heirlooms tomatoes got killed by the late blight. So it sent me on a hunt to find late blight resistant varieties. I ordered about 10 different late blight resistant varieties including 3 packets of Damsel hybrid from Burpee. What I found most interesting is that it appears to be the only late blight resistant beefsteak variation the market that is also indeterminate (that is, produces fruit all the way until frost in the fall.) I never counted how many Damsels actually germinated, but I think I planted about 40 plants, which is about 85-90% success rate. I planted the seeds late also, around April 15th or maybe later. I planted outdoors around June 5th and plants were barely 2 inches tall. It's now June 28th and they are well over a foot, with some pushing 2 feet. At this rate, I hope to have my first Damsels ready to harvest around end of July to mid-August. If they taste as good as advertised on every website that sells them, they will surely become the main variety that I plant every year plus selected heirlooms, and I will only buy the seeds from Burpee! So far, I think you can call me a devoted fan!
Date published: 2018-06-28
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Germination advisory Recommend being careful with the temperature and moisture level when starting these. I bought Damsel with 3 other disease-resistant varieties and was a bit surprised there were only 15 seeds in the packet vs 25-100 for the others. On the first starting attempt, I planted 4 seeds of each variety in peat pellets in a starter tray. I kept everything a bit on the warm side (80F daytime with the "greenhouse" lid on) and added a bit too much water to the tray, so they were wetter than ideal for a few days. The other varieties all germinated >75% anyway, but none of the Damsels came up. Ten days on, after the others were up, I chucked the remaining Damsel seeds in a couple of pellets in the same tray, now with the lid off and more judicious watering. Today is day 5, and over half are sprouting.
Date published: 2018-04-25
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Excellent germination rate This is a limited review, pertaining only to germination at this point. I bought a package of 15 seeds, and started them a couple of weeks ago. I have 16 seedlings, all looking healthy so far, although it's still early. They all emerged within a three-day period, starting five days ago. I started them in Jiffy pots with a soil-peat-perlite mix, and at this point they range from an inch to an inch-and-a-half tall. Fifteen have the first two leaves (the top of the last to emerge is still stuck in the hull), and at least four already show the beginnings of additional leaves. So far, I'm very pleased, and eager to see how things progress.
Date published: 2018-03-15
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