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Tomato, Chadwick Cherry Organic

Short Description

Sweet 1" fruits bear continuously.

Full Description

Juicy 1" cherry tomatoes produced on indeterminate vines. Vigorous, highly productive and disease resistant. We searched the world to find the best organic seed-Burpee fully guarantees that not a drop of synthetic chemicals was used to make these excellent seeds. Certified Organic Seed.
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.


Fruit Bearing This refers to the relative season when the plant produces fruit, or if it bears continuously or just once


Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

80-90 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

1 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

18 inches

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Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Determinate vs Indeterminate Tomatoes
There are two types of growing habits for tomatoes- Determinate and Indeterminate. Learn the differences of each type and why each might be best for your garden.
Watch video
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Quick Start Gardening Guide: Planting Tomatoes
Learn the basics of planting tomatoes including staking and caging. Supporting your tomato plants will give your garden maximum growth and yields.
Watch video
  • Tomatoes

    Start Indoors Start Indoors Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
    Transplant Transplant When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
    Start Outdoors Start Outdoors Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
    Start Indoors Fall Start Indoors Fall Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    Transplant Fall Transplant Fall Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
    Start Outdoors Fall Start Outdoors Fall Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
    First Date: Mar-07 - Last Date: Mar-21
    First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30

How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Fruit Bearing
Days To Maturity
80-90 days
Fruit Weight
1 ounces
Full Sun
18 inches
36-42 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
6 inches
Tomato, Chadwick Cherry Organic is rated 4.3 out of 5 by 9.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Large cherries with a high yield I was given a pack of Chadwick cherry seeds and I planted 6 with 100% germination. 4 were transplanted in the garden after 6 weeks and fruit started ripening and ready in 2 months. I pruned pretty aggressively early and probably harvested 6 milk jugs (gallon) of large cherries over 3 months. This is the only red cherry that I’ll plant this year.
Date published: 2019-04-01
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Large volume of tomatos I bought my seeds in Febuary and got 100% germination in my laundry room with no heat. Transplanted in May to raised beds these plants grew to 10 feet tall. I had to run wires from one end of fence to the other to hold these up. the wires collapsed and the volume of tomato's production these four plants produced. I made so mush salsa and gave away to friends and family and I still had more than I could use. Great production.
Date published: 2018-01-05
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Hardy but taste poor In previous years I've grown several different types of tomato. Some cherry, some large beef tomatoes, some plum. This year I only grew these Chadwick Cherry in our new raised bed garden. I grew 7 plants and trained them to grow a single vine each, pruning off any suckers as they developed. This is the way I've always grown tomatoes. The plants grew really well. I've had no problem with disease or pests and they have been very hardy - dealing with a very changeable summer (lots of rain and heat at different times). I was very hopeful that these would produce a wonderful tomato. The tomatoes did turn out a lot bigger than I expected. They are not perfectly round either, but have an almost hexagonal shape to them. They've just started to ripen this last two weeks - here in Wisconsin, that took 4 months (from starting indoor seedlings in April to being able to harvest fruit in August). Here comes the disappointment... These DO NOT taste like cherry tomatoes. They are not sweet. They are a mushy consistency inside. I don't know if the weather conditions played a part in this but these are hugely disappointing. I won't be using them for salads, as planned but instead I'll be making chutney or salsa with them. I am sorry to say I probably won't grow these again next year.
Date published: 2017-08-11
Rated 5 out of 5 by from The Best ! The best cherry tomato ever ! You can't kill these guys........ heat, lack of rain, nasty early frost.... they continue to growand produce TONS of great tasting fruit ! Everyone should be growing these...
Date published: 2013-12-07
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great Size! These are a bigger cherry tomato that produces really well. They are great to throw whole into the food processor and make salsa and picante sauce. Definitely will keep growing every year!
Date published: 2013-08-28
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Unbelievable! I have grown these tomatoes for the last two years from Burpee seeds. They have consistently provided tomatoes all summer long for us and our friends, very sweet and flavorful. I picked a good sized bowl full about every three days throughout the summer. We have had a pretty hot summer, especially through September. It is now October 2. Yesterday I noticed the tomato plant had grown over the top of our 6-foot fence, so I went around to the neighbor's yard and discovered that the tomato plant had grown all the way to the ground on the other side of the fence with a beautiful cascade of tomatoes in various stages of ripeness, absolutely loaded with fruit. This side of the fence faces east. I am amazed! Luckily my neighbor was gone for a few weeks and didn't pick them! Ha! I enthusiastically recommend this seed, I will be growing these every year.
Date published: 2011-10-02
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Had trouble At the beginning of last year these started out well however the weather changed and went back to rain like the previous year casing blight to accure again. Then things started to dry and I was able to get a few fruits from the plants but a lot split and where lost. Going to try again this year to see if issues accure again.
Date published: 2011-01-29
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Best Salad Tomato! Started indoors from seed myself. I grew over 20 different varieties of tomatoes (all organic seed). It was an exceptionally cool summer this year and most of my tomatoes tasted very bland or "store bought" because of the cool weather. These still tasted great, very very sweet and each the size of a large marble, all hanging picture perfectly on little individual branches. I got about six to eight little tomatoes off each branch and quite a few branches. Perfect for a snack but even better to throw in a salad. I was able to make salads a night in advance for lunch because they are such a perfect size I didn't have to cut them, so it didn't make my salad mushy. I love the fact that even though it's a cherry variety and it produces a nice crop, it doesn't get covered it a million messy branches full of tiny tomatoes. I find that the plants that have tons of little cherry tomatoes on them just tend to get wasted. They crack, they fall, they rot, you know how it is. Not a single one cracked, fell to the ground or got wasted on this wonderful tomato. Three plants kept my family stocked all summer.
Date published: 2009-09-24
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