How to Plant

Planting Potted Plants:

• Choose a location in full sun with loose, well-drained organic soil.
• Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12 inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
• The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
• Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
• Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
• Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
• Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
• Use the plant tag as a location marker.
• Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce.

How to Grow

• Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination.
• Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
• Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry. One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
• Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
• After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
• “Deadhead”, remove spent flower heads to encourage continuous flowering and prevent seed development.
• Prune to rejuvenate after blooming in spring. Cut plants to the base and they will grow back during the season.

Growing Tips

• Only prune plants within six weeks of flowering do avoid damaging the next flowering period.
• Thin out old weak stems that are not flowering freely.
• Lilac prefers a neutral soil.
• Cut flowers are deliciously fragrant.

Common Disease Problems

Bacterial Blight: This usually only occurs on young plants in warm weather. Small oozing cankers appear on the branches and buds. Cankers may continue to completely encircle infected branches, eventually killing them. Burpee Recommends: Practice good garden hygiene at the end of the season and discard, do not compost, possibly diseased plants and plant parts. Space plants to allow for adequate air circulation. Prune all infected branches below cankers. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for recommendations.

Bacterial Leaf Spot: First signs are small translucent spots with a broad yellowish edge that slowly enlarge and become angular or irregularly circular with a reddish center. It thrives in cooler temperatures. The disease may also affect and disfigure flower heads. Burpee Recommends: Remove infected plants. Avoid overhead watering. Do not work around plants when they are wet.

Powdery Mildew: This fungus disease occurs on the top of the leaves in humid weather conditions. The leaves appear to have a whitish or greyish surface and may curl. Burpee Recommends: Avoid powdery mildew by providing good air circulation for the plants by good spacing and pruning. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations. Some lilac varieties are resistant.

Common Pest and Cultural Problems

Lilac Leafminers: These insects bore just under the leaf surface causing irregular serpentine lines. The larvae are yellow cylindrical maggots and the adults are small black and yellow flies. They do not usually kill plants, but disfigure the foliage. Burpee Recommends: Remove affected foliage. Sanitation is important so be sure to remove all debris at the end of the season.

Scale: Small bugs look like brown, black, gray to white bumps on the stems of plants. Scale may not have any apparent legs and may not move. Scales have a sucking mouth part. Scale may produce honeydew so leaves and stems may be sticky. Scale can weaken the plant causing it to grow very slowly and it may wilt at the middle of the day. Burpee Recommends: Completely spray the stems with insecticidal soap. For a severe infestation contact your local County Extension Service for recommendations for your area.

Spider Mites: These tiny spider-like pests are about the size of a grain of pepper. They may be red, black, brown or yellow. They suck on the plant juices removing chlorophyll and injecting toxins which cause white dots on the foliage. There is often webbing visible on the plant. They cause the foliage to turn yellow and become dry and stippled. They multiply quickly and thrive in dry conditions. Burpee Recommends: Spider mites may be controlled with a forceful spray every other day. Try hot pepper wax or insecticidal soap. Check with your Cooperative Extension Service for miticide recommendations.

FAQ

Do I need to prune my lilac? If so, when? Pruning is only needed if the plant is getting too large or if some of the branches are not producing freely. Prune right after it has finished flowering.

Are lilacs good for cut flowers? Yes, they make great cut flowers and are very fragrant.

Do lilacs do well in an acid soil? No, lilac needs a neutral soil. If your soil is acidic add lime to raise the pH.

Can I grow any lilacs in a container? Smaller varieties are now available and may be planted in larger containers. Be sure to use a commercial potting mix.