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Tomato,Super Beefsteak

Short Description

Better than Beefsteak!

Full Description

Delicious, flavorful, meaty fruits have smooth shoulders, not as rough and ridgy as Beefsteak and the blossom end scars are smaller. Prolific, vigorous plants produce luscious red fruits averaging 17 oz.
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Item#: 53645A
Order: 1 Pkt. (175 seeds)
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$3.95
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Product properties

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

80 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

17 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

36-48 inches

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

48-60 inches

Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

Indoor Sow

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Tomatoes- Staking and Caging
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity
80 days
Fruit Weight
17 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
36-48 inches
Height
48-60 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Planting Time
Spring
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
36 inches
Life Cycle
Annual
Tomato,Super Beefsteak is rated 4.111111111111111 out of 5 by 9.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Super Beefsteak I have been growing this variety for years Indeterminate - Vine Tomato plants. Meaty Tomato with nice flavor. You must stake or cage this plant. It will be heavy with large fruit. I have had Tomatoes over 2 lbs.up to 3 lbs which may rival the new largest Tomato Burpee has the Steakhouse Tomato.
Date published: 2016-05-29
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Tomato,Super Beefsteak 53645A -. 1 Pkt This hybrid product? Or is it a standard type? Thanks.
Date published: 2015-11-19
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great Tomato! I planted these tomatoes and had a 70% germination rate, which is better for me than normal tomato seeds. These are producing tomatoes very well and are still performing beautifully through late November. I would definitely recommend this tomato!
Date published: 2014-11-27
Rated 5 out of 5 by from A new favorite! Every year I try a new variety, along with our regular favorites. This year it was the super beefsteaks and it was a winner! 100 % of the seeds germinated, they were easy growers and good producing plants. We had a very funky growing season this year, with unusually cool weather, lots of cloudy days and/or rain. As a result, most gardens were taken down by a fungal virus. The super beefsteak was the last to succumb to the virus, and the best producer in the garden. If these plants can do that well in a bad growing year, I can't wait to see what they do in a good year. And, the flavor was OUTSTANDING. They are large plants though - mine went close to 7 feet - but that's about the only drawback with these tomatoes.
Date published: 2014-09-17
Rated 5 out of 5 by from First Timer - OMG! I've never grown tomatoes from seed, and a local store had all seeds on sale. Being unemployed, I thought I'd try my hand. From years of buying starter plants, I knew I wanted indeterminate tomatoes, and chose the Super Beefsteak because I wanted a larger tomato that would be great to can. I planted over 20 seeds in a starter tray. All the seeds germinated and grew into beautiful plants. It's early July now, I gave 4 plants away, and the rest are in kitty litter pails (38 pound huge pails), because our soil is lousy. They are planted in a mix of garden soil and cow manure, and fed with organic fertilizer. Every day, I go out and talk to them, water them, fertilize when needed - I just cannot believe I grew these gorgeous plants -- FROM SCRATCH! They have tons of blossoms and buds, and I've even got a few baby tomatoes! Can't wait to start harvesting them! Thank you so much, Burpee!
Date published: 2014-07-06
Rated 5 out of 5 by from All my seeds started Started these indoors using commercial potting mix and had fantastic germination. I put two seed in each chamber and snipped one after their true leaves emerged, then transplanted into 3" pots (16 oz styrofoam coffee cups.) They are growing well and I look forward to setting them out in the garden a a few weeks. I used good, clean well water and did not allow the starter mix to dry out during the first two weeks. I also started Super Sweet 100 Cherry tomatoes the same way and was equally successful.
Date published: 2012-04-03
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Old time favorite I remember having Beefsteaks when I was a kid. I have not been much of a gardner but decided to develope the skill. I wanted to try "Square Foot Gardening" since our soil is so poor. I started the seeds in yogurt containers that I had saved along with potting soil. All the plants came up except two but I planted extra. They seemed to transplant well in very heavly composted beds. I water twice a day until they are established since the soil drains so well. That is as far as I have gotten but I'm encouraged by what I see.
Date published: 2011-06-07
Rated 2 out of 5 by from Poor Plants! I was amazed at how fast these seeds germinated. But as soon as they sprouted, they died! At first, i thought it was just my mistake, so i put them in seed starting formula, they did the same thing. I put them in my greenhouse,they did the same thing.So then i sowed them directly into my garden, and they did the same thing! So i realized it wasnt me, so im just gonna try a new variety.Maybe its the weather???
Date published: 2010-05-29
  • 2016-07-29T06:41CST
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