Tomato, Yellow Pear
HEIRLOOM. Enormous numbers of yellow bite-sized fruits.
Days To Maturity
6-8 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
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How to Sow and Plant
- Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning will be necessary
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
- Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
- Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
- At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
- The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
- Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity75 daysFruit Weight4 ouncesSunFull SunSpread24-36 inchesHeight60-72 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time6-8 weeks BLFThin6 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Tomato, Yellow Pear is rated out of 5 by 36.Rated 5 out of 5 by Garden15 from Great tomato Prolific producer of great tasting tomatoes ! Bright yellow some almost got to light orange with a shape of an absolute pair. Crunchy skin and sweet! Highly recommended !Date published: 2015-09-22Rated 4 out of 5 by Teresajill from Amazing producer, but not much flavor This plant was quite vigorous and produced an unbelievable number of tomatoes. I don't love the flavor, but they make for beautiful tomato dishes when mixed with a few red tomatoes.Date published: 2015-09-08Rated 3 out of 5 by SaffronKitty from Not a huge fan of thes I grew several different kinds of tomato this year and the yellow pear was not one of my favorites. Although it is by far one of the most vigorous growing tomatoes I have in my garden and haven't had any issues with splitting or too many disease problems, I find that the taste is just "meh". Compared to several of my other tomatoes, this tomato tasted very bland. It was almost as if the walls had too much water in them, but it wasn't really watery, if you get what I'm saying. As a result, it wasn't tangy or sweet or acidic tasting at all. Making sun-dried tomatoes from these is the only way I have found that I can get a lot of flavor from these. Grilling them gets a little flavor. I don't think I'll grow this one again. The Green Envy and Sunchocola, on the other hand, are keepers!Date published: 2015-07-06Rated 1 out of 5 by UB008 from Died... Ordered 3 plants last year and all of them died. Thought it was the ground. Planted peppers this year in the same place without any changes to the soil. The peppers are thriving and producing. Order 1 plant this year and put it in a different place with other tomato plants. Again, it is dying. However, the other tomato plants I ordered are bearing fruit. :(Date published: 2015-06-26Rated 5 out of 5 by SummerDay from Definately getting this one again this year I bought this yellow pear tomato for the first time last year as a live plant..part of the mix and match item. It was the best, longest growing, most abuse -taking, most prolific and great tasting tomato I have ever grown. I had 18 varieties last year, and this one just kept on growing way past the others. To pick, we were able to grab a handful at a time because of the way they grow in bunches. I needed to get creative with where I put the new growth as it outgrew my large traditional tomato cage. I should have used one of the XL Pro-series cages that I had. As it was, I had to brace up the cage that it was in and let the new part of the vine crawl across a brace into another support. Picked our last few in very late October. My 8 grandchildren loved snacking on them, and so did the adults! We included baggies of them in our lunches and also used them in a variety of salads. I wrote down the name of this one and saved it so I would be sure to include it again this year. A real winner!Date published: 2015-02-10Rated 5 out of 5 by brseavey from tomatos: many diseases: 0 Produces an incredible bounty of tomatoes. Had no problem with cracking, despite sporadic, heavy rains. Had no diseases.Date published: 2014-09-17Rated 1 out of 5 by cmp05 from Bad seeds? These germinated and grew well, but, as a previous commenter posted, died off soon after I put them in the ground. Just wilted, with leaves curling up, and unripe fruit dropping off. Each was in a raised garden bed with a different plant that is thriving and producing. Perhaps I got a bad lot of seeds? Wondering if anyone else had this problem.Date published: 2014-07-19Rated 4 out of 5 by Chels21 from Pretty to look at I grew these for my mom, because she loves yellow cherry tomatoes, however, these were very tart. We didn't like these at all, and the plant put out a lot of fruit. Eventually she started giving them away at work, and my sister liked them. We had two plants that were producing like crazy. We also grew Sweetie cherry tomatoes and we loved those. Yellow pear will not be in our garden this year, but I'm sure this type of tomato is an acquired taste. We are trying honey delight and tumbling tom this year hopefully they will be sweeter.Date published: 2014-03-27