Tomato, Tumbling Tom Yellow Hybrid
A great cherry tomato for containers and hanging baskets.
Days To Maturity
6-8 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
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How to Sow and Plant
- Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning will be necessary
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
- Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
- Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
- At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
- The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
- Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity70-80 daysFruit Weight1-2 ouncesSunFull SunSpread6-8 inchesHeight20-25 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time6-8 weeks BLFThin36 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Tomato, Tumbling Tom Yellow Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 8.Rated 1 out of 5 by Chels21 from No plants I had no luck with these seeds last year (2014) despite burpee sending me a new packet, none of them germinated, by the time I got the second pack it was too late to start them indoors anyway. I wanted to grow these for my mom, but had no luck. I had a few seeds left over from my replacement pack and planted some, so far only one has come up. We'll see how it does. At this point it's just an experiment. The amount of seeds you get don't justify the cost. There needs to be at least 20-30 seeds in a pack since the germination rate is so poor, that would justify the cost of $3.95.Date published: 2015-01-13Rated 1 out of 5 by Lizbeth from Poor Germination 2013 - but trying again 2014 I start my tomatoes and peppers from seed every year. Last year (2013) I grew several dozen tomato plants and 15 varieties of tomatoes alone (I had over 125 pepper plants and 20 varieties). I am experienced and skilled at seed starting, not only with veggies but also with perennials. I had very little trouble last year with my plants started from seed. However, only 2 of my 10 Tumbling Tom seeds germinated last year. Both plants did not survive more than three weeks once in the garden, but that might have been due to their location. I tried a new garden location last year and put these two plants as well as another small cherry variety there, and they did not thrive. So, I am trying again this year (2014). I live in Zone 5 Colorado, & I will not put my tomatoes in the garden until June 1. My hope is that the 2014 batch of Tumbling Tom seeds have better germination rates. If I am able to get 8-10 plants from this pack, I will consider it successful germination. I will be planting them in a reliable location if I get any plants. I plan to update my review in several months to see how my 2nd try goes. I WANT these plants to succeed - they sound wonderful!Date published: 2014-04-14Rated 3 out of 5 by Girl77 from Two experiences The first year I got these they were amazing. I had tons of yellow tomatoes that had the best flavor. I couldn't wait to order them again and recommended them to all my friends. The second year, I got zero plants out of my ten seeds. I have tons of other tomato plants I grew from seed at the same time, these are the only ones that didn't work out. I would give one review of 5 stars for the first year and 1 star for the second. I'm hoping I just got a dud package and next year will be better.Date published: 2013-08-28Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from Very prolific! These do get wider than 6", as the description says...mine are about 12" wide each. Over a hundred fruits on each plant, and they seem very hardy and disease resistant. Will definitely grow these again next year. Harvested my first two last night, and the taste was excellent.Date published: 2012-06-27Rated 1 out of 5 by fleawillie from NO LUCK ON MY PART Must be me, but I bought two packs at different times this year, used the Burpee tomato starter kit and had zero success with either pack. Not one seed sprouted. Used heat mat, lights, and in a greenhouse. No luck.Date published: 2012-05-30Rated 3 out of 5 by Orchidman from Colorful for hanging basket The flavor was good with a firm skin covering. Not as prolific as the Red version. May have done better if I used a really huge hanging container, but the red one did fine in a same size container. Sun Sugar is still my favorite yellow cherry tomato.Date published: 2011-08-19Rated 5 out of 5 by Sorce from Success!!! For many years, my family did the huge garden thing. But as we got busier, we realized we didn't have the time or patience it took to start and maintain our huge garden. I was looking for a short cut and found my answer. I wasn't sure it would work but this bright, beautiful little tomatoes are plentiful. The sweet flavor is wonderful and yellow color gives them a unique look. It is so nice to be able to walk out on my deck and pluck some tomatoes for breakfast. I highly recommend this to anyone looking for the easy way out. Simple and easy.Date published: 2011-08-07Rated 5 out of 5 by BurpeeGardenExpert from Great for containers and hanging baskets. Directly in the ground the plants were healthy. In a container, the fruits rolled down the sides in abundant clusters. In a hanging basket, the sweet yellow cherries tumbled down like the vines of a loveable houseplant.Date published: 2011-02-04