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Tomato, Super Sweet 100 Hybrid

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Short Description

Scarlet, cherry-sized tomatoes produce long clusters right up to frost.

Full Description

Cherry tomatoes bursting with sugary flavor. The scarlet, cherry-sized fruits are produced in long pendulous clusters right up to frost. Grow on stakes or a fence.
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Item#: 52027A
Order: 1 Pkt. (50 seeds)
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$3.95
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Item#: 24930
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Tomato, Super Sweet 100 Hybrid
Tomato, Super Sweet 100 Hybrid , , large
Item #: 24930
3 Plants
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Product properties

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

70 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

1 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

18 inches

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

60-72 inches

Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

Indoor Sow

Shipping Information

Restrictions:

Item 24930 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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Tomatoes- Staking and Caging
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity
70 days
Fruit Weight
1 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
18 inches
Height
60-72 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Planting Time
Spring
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
6 inches
Life Cycle
Annual
Tomato, Super Sweet 100 Hybrid is rated 4.3 out of 5 by 60.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from easy grower not wife proof Always have really good luck with this plant. It does love the fertilizer but will reward you ten fold. On one tomato plant this season we counted almost 2000 cherries.(minus whatever wife managed to scarf down) The flavor on these are very good just try not to pick to early wait until red is all over.
Date published: 2015-12-15
Rated 3 out of 5 by from long clusters of scarlet tomatoes? They grew well - easily over six feet tall - fortunately I had sufficiently sized cages for them, but the promised long clusters never arrived. Instead I got multiple bunches for 5 or so tomatoes - it didn't look at all like the picture shown. Since i'm a tomato novice, I can't say for certain, but they looked, except for the height, like regular cherry tomatoes clusters. Any one else have this issue?
Date published: 2015-09-17
Rated 1 out of 5 by from What The Heck?! Something is seriously wrong with my Super Sweet 100 tomatoes. The fruit is larger than advertised, mushy inside, certainly not sweet, and just plain "yuck." And to make things worse, I have about 10 of these plants so I have LOTS of these unusable tomatoes. It seems you have let some undesirable genes into the pool, and I am beyond disappointed.
Date published: 2015-08-19
Rated 2 out of 5 by from Not sweet 100's I bought a pack of these late last year for the upcoming 2015 season. I do not know what the tomato is but I do know it is NOT Sweet 100. They are very large for a cherry and right now they are 3x the size of a cherry. They are not sweet and have all been mushy. Also they have very few tomatoes on a cluster - maybe 3 to 5 is it. The plants are suffering from blight despite my spraying them. BIG disappointment.
Date published: 2015-08-07
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Quite a crop but what the heck am I growing? This is my second attempt at supersweet 100 since this is the only seed my local store carries. Last year the seedlings didn't germinate. This year I had much more success however, my plants are nearly 7 feet tall and growing, the fruit is growing on shorter clusters and are the size of small apricots. I don't feel like this fits the description. Taste is okay, not terribly sweet. The fruit needs extra time to ripen despite being red otherwise it gets a mealy texture at the shoulders. Did I get an evil sibling strain?
Date published: 2015-08-05
Rated 2 out of 5 by from Disappointing flavor I have grown Sweet 100s for many years with great success. In fact, even the volunteers from the Sweet 100s are incredibly delicious. This year, I decided to pull up all my volunteers are start fresh from seed. I figured if Sweet 100s are good, Supersweet 100s would be super good! It hasn't worked out that way. My plants are healthy and productive, but the tomatoes do not taste good. They are not sweet or particularly juicy, and they have a bitter aftertaste and tough skins. I thought they might improve as the summer went on, but that is not happening. This is very disappointing, especially since Burpee seed is not cheap.
Date published: 2015-08-04
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Favorite Cherry Tomato Ever This is the best tomato I have ever grown. I have grown it for years and years now and I will never get rid of it. It never fails to be the earliest cherry tomato I grow no matter when I plant or if I have 'earlier' varieties. Very hearty, disease resistant, ties and trellises well to a number of different support systems, and is the best tasting cherry in all of my thirty-five plus plants this year already. Have saved seed from it, eaten it so many different ways, have raised plants from seed, etc. This is by far my favorite tomato plant ever. Bar none.
Date published: 2015-06-22
Rated 5 out of 5 by from High Yield, High Flavor, Step up in Management These were an excellent buy. I will be purchasing again. Short review: -10/10 flavor -10/10 size -10/10 yield - 5/10 maintenance - 7/10 hardiness/health - 7/10 ease of growing - 5/10 demand of soil -Requires more maintenance, but makes it up in flavor, yield, and health. -Okay beginner tomato if a daily gardener, needs maintenance, not a 'plant and forget' variety. -Soil demands are more intense due to size -Double the spacing at least. Long Review: I notice the people who have issues with the tomato, probably did not prepare their soil or tend these correctly. They are okay beginner tomatoes, but not a tomato you can just plop in the garden, weed, water, and harvest. You'll get sub-par tomatoes. That isn't Burpee's fault, its the gardener. First, all the seeds in my packet germinated! There is bound to be a few of your plants that will thrive and a couple lagers. That is normal, especially since not every plant can get the optimal placement in many gardens. Regardless, they did very well right from transplanting. Because of the soil available, mine exploded with a ton of leaves and a ton of fruit. If you've improved your soil- BEWARE as this variety will quickly need management. Do not skip trimming your lower branches and TOP OFF you plant once it has reached your desired height! Otherwise they will grow well over 10 ft tall. The health of the plants is good, and even with fast growth the plant has thick, thick, thick, branches. Do not buy the small tomato cage, or if you do buy stakes to support the cage. The weight of your harvest can damage the plant and cut your plant's longevity. You may find you need to trim the center a bit as well of smaller branches to allow air flow. They need management-all good varieties do! Just be on your toes and you will avoid a lot of the complaints others have had. Don't trim leaves covering the fruit through, allow them to be in shade. The fruit was nice, small, round, and profuse with great flavor and color. The plants did well to keep 99% of their fruit bunched just under leaves. The fruits came in early and were beautiful to look at.They were versatile in flavor and perfect in shape. I would say to double the spacing on the package at LEAST. Mine grew over a 4 ft radius w/ a cage. If you're skilled and know your garden's soil well, give each plant at least 4 ft. of room. What they take up in space they make up for in their production. 1 plant tripled the yield over last season's 5 plants (forgot variety). Knock on wood-no major infections or illness. Seem to be much hardier than some other varieties. They were fast to heal from any injuries. They responded to pruning in less than 12 hours by growing 4-6 inches tall. Its nice to have a plant that responsive. I'm in FL, so my climate contributed a lot to the success. They ate up the heat and turned it into tomatoes. Humidity is going to be your greatest concern if you're in the south-but only takes about five minutes to prevent build up of moisture: a tiny trim. My friend in NY grew them as well and had very similar results. My biggest criticism- more spacing, that the only issue I really think is a negative.
Date published: 2015-04-18
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