Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid
Earlier than Early Girl with larger fruit and improved yields.
Days To Maturity
6-8 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
Item 22361 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI See all Burpee plant shipping restrictions for your state
How to Sow and Plant
- Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning will be necessary
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
- Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
- Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
- At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
- The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
- Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity49-52 daysFruit Weight5-6 ouncesSunFull SunSpread40-45 inchesHeight55-60 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time6-8 weeks BLFThin6 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Tomato, Summer Girl Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 13.Rated 3 out of 5 by mathchef from Acceptable, but not great My Summer Girl tomato plant did not produce tomatoes any earlier than my other tomato plants. I think my Super Sauce tomato plant was the earliest this year. Summer Girl has produced the greatest number of tomatoes of all my plants, but the size of each tomato is rather small. The plant has slowly succumbed to disease just as much as all the other plants. All in all, the tomatoes are fine, but nothing to rave about.Date published: 2015-08-09Rated 5 out of 5 by 50YearGardener from Exceptional New Tomato Variety: Summer Girl Hybrid 8/4/2015 I've been buying and starting Burpee seeds since 1970 (don't think you were computerized back then#. Big Boy was my first super tomato and my first new hybrid was Big Girl; I really loved that girl ! However, she just seemed to run out of gas and I lost interest. A new neighbor moved in 3-4 years ago and he was growing Brandy Boy; it was very tasty, productive, great flavor and relatively early. He supplies the seeds and I grow them. I had been growing Early Girl for many, many years, but this year #2015# I got acquainted with Summer Girl Hybrid. She seems a little like my Big Girl. Summer Girl and I are getting along just fine. I started my tomato seeds 3/31/15 and harvested my first pair of Summer Girls 7/25/15. You "betcha" that's early for Wisconsin - and they were 8 and 9 ounces each, with super great flavor #little "acidy"# and the sturdy plants are loaded with beautiful green and blushing fruit #no, I didn't count them - too many#. Yes, we also had a really, yes really, rough Spring too, but I'm eating Summer Girls every day #10 days in a row# and the sun's shining. Oh, the best part: my wife loves them too !Date published: 2015-08-04Rated 5 out of 5 by SlugSlayer from Summer Girl Hybrid I start my tomatoes from seed. I usually raise Bush Early Girl, and it has done well for my in this area. I was suprised that Summer Girl was ripe just as soon as my Bush Early Girls, and the flavor was even better. They both had about the same size of tomatoes, and I've gotten some as big as 1 LB from the Bush Early Girl in the past. I had good sized tomates because I have learned to pick off all but about 3 or 4 blossoms per cluster. We get a lot of rain in this area at times in the fall, so I made a lean-to to keep the water off of the plants. By doing that we had tomatoes into October, and green ones that rippened until Thanksgiving. Summer Girl is the best tasting tomato I've been able to grow in this area, and they stay snice and firm. I will definitely be growing it again this year. I shared some with neighbors and they want to try some this year as well. Definitely a winner for this area.Date published: 2015-02-11Rated 5 out of 5 by Hootie from Still picking in November We did have great weather for gardening this summer, but even so, I am amazed how well my Summer Girls are doing. I believe they will keep producing until there is an actual hard frost. Although I didn't find them to be any earlier than my other strains of tomatoes, they are beautifully shaped and very tasty. I will definitely grow them again.Date published: 2014-11-07Rated 5 out of 5 by Dayafterderby from Very good tomato After many years of raising tomatoes, I've focused on two that I now grow exclusively: Early Girl and Brandy Boy. Early Girls for side dishes and salads, and Brandy Boys for huge, sandwich slices. This year I tried Burpee's Summer Girl Hybrid in the place of my usual Early Girls. I raised these SG Hybrids from seed. They gave me everything I wanted: A smaller, good tasting garden tomato that I can start enjoying in June, rather than having to wait until July; a tomato that is EASY to peel, which is great for me, since I probably peeled 200 of them, and I'll repeat...these have a thin skin that is easy to peel. Also, this is a tomato with a LONG growing season--it is now October 23rd, and I'm still getting production--in Northern Kentucky, no less. Speaking of production, my family began a tradition of eating these tomatoes with our breakfast, and Summer Girl Hybrid was so consistently productive that we were never without breakfast tomatoes during the entire season. (This is a better producer than Brandy Boy.) You'll notice that I gave 'em 5 stars. I'd give them 4 1/2 if I could. The only reason for this is that the taste of these toms are not quite up to par with Brandy Boys. But what tomato is?? This was a very good tasting tomato. I'll be staying with them next year.Date published: 2014-10-23Rated 2 out of 5 by arcticgardener from Not ready for primetime Started Summer Girl seeds along with Power Pops and 4th of July. Summer Girl germinated 3 of 16 seeds. Only one ended up a viable plant. That plant was vigorous and is ripening a nice crop. None ripe at end of outdoor season. Brought plant indoors to try to get a single tomato to at least get a taste. Under same conditions Power Pops and 4th of July germinated almost 100% from seeds that were a year older than Summer Girl.Date published: 2014-09-21Rated 4 out of 5 by INDYGARDEN63 from Great Salad Tomato This turned out to be a smallish salad tomato for me . I had three plants which gave me more than I could use . They did not seem to come any earlier than the usual Early Girl , but this may have been due to our weird cool summer this year. They were slightly bigger than the Campari tomato you see at the grocery with similar taste . Seedy which made them undesirable for making sauce . But a great tasting salad tomato. Will order again but will share my three with other gardeners and only plant one next year .Date published: 2014-09-21Rated 5 out of 5 by efmd from Bumper Crop Rather than grow these in the ground, I chose to use a table-top planter. Great idea! What a bumper crop of tomatoes--and they are still coming. Plenty of yellow flowers. We have had some cool nights and the plants/tomatoes are surviving. I will definitely order this for next season.Date published: 2014-09-21