Tomato, Napa Grape Hybrid
Beats all other grape tomatoes in our taste tests.
Days To Maturity
6-8 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
Item 20603 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI See all Burpee plant shipping restrictions for your state
How to Sow and Plant
- Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning will be necessary
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
- Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
- Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
- At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
- The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
- Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity65 daysFruit Weight1 ouncesSunFull SunSpread18 inchesHeight40-48 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time6-8 weeks BLFThin36 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Tomato, Napa Grape Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 37.Rated 3 out of 5 by JSFarms from Solid plant, but not my favorite this year. Our Napa Grape Hybrid survived early stage abuse from my newbie seed-starting errors. It clearly wanted to live -- so much so that after I ran out of containers (and space, it seemed) for my terrace garden, I couldn't toss the poor little fellow, and finally gave in, buying one more pot to to transplant it into. Once I did that, it really took off, and now (two months later) is about 6-7 feet tall -- in a 12-inch pot. Seriously. So, that's a testament to its hardiness, but unfortunately, the tomatoes themselves aren't our favorites. The skin feels sort of thick (almost chewy) when we eat it, if that makes any sense, and the taste is just average. Normally, I'd be thrilled with average, but we also grew Sweetheart of the Patios and Sunchocola Hybrids, which were phenomenal, so I'm going to stick with them next year and not reorder the Napa.Date published: 2015-09-28Rated 5 out of 5 by Teresajill from Best tasting tomatoes EVER! We really love these tomatoes. The plant produced large numbers of tomatoes in a very small space, but we have no idea how many it really produced because we were picking them daily. Every time my daughter or I walk past this plant, we find ourselves scavenging a handful and eating them right on the spot. Amazing amazing flavor and so beautiful. Very few splits or had any other visual imperfections. Great with the yellow pear tomato.Date published: 2015-09-08Rated 4 out of 5 by happydoc from not the same this year This is the third season I have planted the Napa Grape, but unlike the previous 2 years, this plant, a good grower, has produced fruit that appears a different shape and size, and more importantly, lacking in taste compared to the previous seasons. I'm not sure if this a different cultivar in that the conditions have been the same over the past 3 years (raised bed garden). Despite this, will likely give it a pass this year and plant it again next season hoping for a better result.Date published: 2015-08-17Rated 5 out of 5 by BurpeeGardener112 from Sweetest, Best Grape Tomato Ever! Bought these last year and was amazed at the vigorous growth, bountiful harvest, and fruit productivity ALL season long. I was getting sugar sweet tomatoes until the 3rd frost in October. The photo I attached below is what the bottom drawer of our spare fridge looked like already early in the season. Those are all Napa Grape Tomatoes, AKA my new favorite tomato as of 2014!! I've already reordered this year's plants. Looking forward to another great season of Napa Grape Tomatoes. Agreeing with the description, they sure beat all other grape tomatoes in my taste tests! Thanks, Burpee!Date published: 2015-04-21Rated 5 out of 5 by FarmerTK from 5 Stars Deserved The preceding accolades for the Napa speak for themselves so I'm just here to second them all. I used to be more of a cherry tomato fan but after several years of resounding success with the Napa, not to mention the great flavor, you won't find me turning any away. (Image has Napa with sweet Baby Girl hybrid mixed in - get both!)Date published: 2014-11-09Rated 5 out of 5 by elisse from Our favorite tomato- candy-sweet! We grow lots of different tomatoes every year, but this is our favorite- they are literally as sweet as candy! Everyone is always amazed at how incredibly sweet they are and we LOVE them! Will like to buy plants, and will definitely grow it again next year!Date published: 2014-11-02Rated 5 out of 5 by IndianaGreenGirl from Always a winner! I have ordered these plants 5 years in a row. The plants grow large so give them plenty of space and be sure to provide strong support to keep vines from breaking and off the ground. They like a sunny location. They are heavy producers, producing fruit into October. At prime season, the tomatoes are perfect egg-shaped and so sweet. I've grown these in wet and dry summers, extremely hot summers and not so hot summers, and they always are winners.Date published: 2014-10-22Rated 5 out of 5 by PrincessaMy from Amazing producer! I decided to plant these this year, in our square foot garden. The plants grew quickly from their little tiny stature and now are almost six feet tall and about three feet in diameter. We have probably gotten at least 100+ amazing, plump, sweet and delicious tomatoes from each plant and already have them on the shopping list for our 2015 garden! You can't go wrong with these little gems.Date published: 2014-09-22