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Tomato, Heatwave II Hybrid

Short Description

Grow great tasting tomatoes in the most intense summer heat.

Full Description

These great tasting tomatoes perform exceptionally well in the most intense summer heat even at 95 F. The round, 6 to 7 oz. fruits on compact plants are extremely disease resistant.
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Item#: 57067A
Order: 1 Pkt. (30 seeds)
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$4.95
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Product properties

Type Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.

Container

Fruit Bearing This refers to the relative season when the plant produces fruit, or if it bears continuously or just once

Determinate

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

68 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

6-7 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

18 inches

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Tomatoes- Staking and Caging
Support your tomato plants for maximum growth and yields.
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously until frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Type
Container
Fruit Bearing
Determinate
Days To Maturity
68 days
Fruit Weight
6-7 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
18 inches
Height
36-40 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
36 inches
Tomato, Heatwave II Hybrid is rated 4.4 out of 5 by 25.
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Tasty Tomato Even with an extra hot summer and water rationing, these tomatoes grew and had wonderful tomato flavor. The plants held up to the 100 plus temperature while my other tomato varieties did not do so well. Heatwave II will be a staple in my garden from now on.
Date published: 2016-09-15
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Poor Germination I decided to try Heatwave this year in addition to my standard German Johnson and Arkansas Traveler tomatoes as I wanted a determinate variety that would withstand the heat in NC. I planted all 3 varieties in starter trays exposed to the exact same conditions and using the same soil. Out of an entire packet of Heatwave seeds I only got 3 to germinate. I'm going to order a new packet and see if I can get some more seedlings going in time to plant in early June.
Date published: 2016-03-25
Rated 5 out of 5 by from A Winner This is my first year to grow the Heat Wave II tomatoes and for sure it won't be the last. These tomatoes are going to be a staple in my veggie garden. Great job Burpee.
Date published: 2015-08-02
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Most Productive Tomato I have This Year This is the most productive tomato I've had this year. I'm in zone 8a in SC. We had an abnormally hot spring where it jumped from 80's to upper 90's for several weeks. Even with minimal watering and fertilizers, these plants outgrew and out produced all of the other plants I have (16 other plants of 5 other varieties). I plan to order more seeds and start some more for a second planting at the end of July since these have now slowed down and the tomatoes are getting smaller and less frequent. Off one plant I've gotten nearly 40 tomatoes, 6-8 oz each.
Date published: 2015-07-06
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Outstanding producer! May not be the best tasting of tomatoes, but the production of these tomatoes is incredible. I've had vines/plants with well over a hundred tomatoes several times. I like planting them late in the season to have fresh tomatoes over the winter as I keep them in my greenhouse to slowly ripen.
Date published: 2015-01-30
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Heatwave Tomato This plant produces more fruit than I have ever experienced. Ripening nicely and very pleased except the flavor is not great. Like a grocery store tomato as another review says. Better than most for disease resistance. I am thinking they need more vine-time, I pick them when red but they seem hard - maybe leaving them for an extra day or two would develop more flavor?
Date published: 2014-12-29
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Good Grower, Fair Taste Grew these tomatoes this past spring/summer. They are strong growers with good output but their taste is only fair. Kind of like store bought tomatoes rather than homegrown. And, as soon as the temps got over 90 degrees they quit producing just like any other tomato here. So the "heatwave" isn't very descriptive. I'd stay with the tried and true Celebrity tomatoes for our Zone 8 here in the Dallas area. They also grow very well, but taste better. And for a larger sized tomato try the Arkansas Traveler. Does well in the heat and is an heirloom.
Date published: 2014-09-21
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great production This tomato took a while for us to start, but is is producing really well. Hot summer might have slowed it down, though we still had fruit. It is going really strong and I intend to use this tomato again.
Date published: 2014-09-05
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