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Tomato, Early Girl Hybrid

Short Description

Bears heavy crops extremely early, continues longer than most tomatoes.

Full Description

Large clusters of 5 oz. fruits are borne extremely early, continues longer than most varieties. Globe to slightly flattened shape. Bright red and meaty with a lot of flavor and aroma. A prodigious producer. Harvest 59 days from transplant. Indeterminate.
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Item#: 51011A
Order: 1 Pkt. (30 seeds)
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$3.95
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Item#: 51011E
Order: 1 Pkt. (125 seeds)
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$8.95
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Product properties

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

59 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

4-5 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

52 inches

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

55 inches

Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

Indoor Sow

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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity
59 days
Fruit Weight
4-5 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
52 inches
Height
55 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Planting Time
Spring
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
36 inches
Life Cycle
Annual
Tomato, Early Girl Hybrid is rated 3.9 out of 5 by 20.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from It's like the Energizer Bunny I bought four different tomato plants for a raised bed garden last summer. I live in West Virginia, and on October 28th I picked the last two, picture perfect tomatoes. The vine looked like it had died months ago, but the fruit kept producing. I took a picture of the identification tag to make sure this summer I have four Early Girl tomatoes growing in my garden!
Date published: 2016-03-03
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Not the same Early girl I've been growing Earl Girl tomatoes for over 30 years and the current seed does not produce the same fruit as it did prior to about 6 years ago. The current fruit has a different shape, is slightly less solid, not as productive and not as flavorful as the older variety. Maybe it's geneticy drift or grower selection. It is more similar to New Girl, which has also not performed well for me. I may continue to plant them as we need veggies with a growing season of <65 days, but I continue to search for seeds more consistent with the original Early Girl which remain the best tomatoes in our garden.
Date published: 2016-02-17
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Not Overly Impressed I have grown this tomato for several years and I have never been overly impressed with these plants. I have grown them in four different enviroments, in two different types of existing soil, in peat moss, and in potting soil, and the results are never super different. This tomato is not as early as it says it is supposed to be, it does not bear heavy crops at all, and was the first plant to die out in all of the situations even with protection. They cracked, got blossom end rot on most tomatoes despite heavy amounts of calcium given throughout the year, have caught several different types of diseases, etc. And this has nothing to do with the soil, I have grown two+ other varieties right alongside it in all of the situations (I am a very experimental gardener) and the other plants did fine. Amazingly, actually. Again, not impressed with this variety and I would not feed my family these tomatoes over almost any other kind.
Date published: 2015-06-22
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great long producing tomato I have grown the early girl tomato since they came out. First bought them while living in the Puget sound area of washington state with short wet growing season and they did great. moved to the central semi desert area of the state 6 years ago and have had excellent success with them here also. as a long time tomato grower they cannot be beat or production and a long crop. Those that have complained about taste, your soil determines the taste. to me they are great tasting. already have my 2015 crop started and they are up (indoors) already..
Date published: 2015-02-12
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Good producer but lacks flavor First year growing these. Plants have done quite well and are loaded with fruit - no problems with wilt or blight that have affected some of our other plants. As advertised, they matured earlier than most other slicing varieties. The fruit looks great - very uniform with a nice red color, albeit a bit on the small side. However, we're not sold on the taste. They seem to lack flavor that we get from other varieties, both hybrid and heirloom. We grow more than 2 dozen varieties and as far as taste goes, this one ranks down near the bottom. Probably won't grow these again.
Date published: 2014-07-13
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Disaster The plants all developed bacterial speck which may be carried on the seed.
Date published: 2012-05-09
Rated 2 out of 5 by from tomato were very wilted when recieved kept them indoors for 48 hours Planted iearthbox they have not recovered yet I still have hopoe but very slim
Date published: 2012-05-08
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Classic All Around Producer Early Girls are early producers and will produce throughout the season. They will give you lots small to medium sized fruits. The plants withstand heatwaves about as well as anything although the fruit size will decrease toward the end of the summer. They have above average resistance to disease. I find them the perfect size to use for single meals and to use as a side dish. This plant is similar in personality to the 4th of July hybrid although it produces fewer but larger fruits. I will probably always grow at least one of these in my garden.
Date published: 2011-10-10
  • 2016-09-30T06:18CST
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