Tomato, Cherry Punch Hybrid
Tops for taste and nutrition with 30% more vitamin C of an average tomato.
Days To Maturity
6-8 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
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How to Sow and Plant
- Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning will be necessary
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
- Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
- Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
- At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
- The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
- Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity48 daysFruit Weight1 ouncesSunFull SunSpread36 inchesHeight24 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time6-8 weeks BLFThin6 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Tomato, Cherry Punch Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 45.Rated 5 out of 5 by MonCher from Awesome plant & flavor This was a new plant for me this year. I absolutely love it. All of my Cherry Punch plants are growing in 5 gallon containers. It tends to put most of its growth into the fruit instead of the leaves, whereas vining tomatoes put out lots of leaves. Another plus for Cherry Punch is its 48 days to harvest, and what a harvest! There seems to be less splitting than with other varieties. The flavor is sweet. Next year I plan on growing nothing but Cherry Punch & Cherry Power Pops for my cherry tomato needs. I'm through messing around with the vining cherry tomatoes. The vines need a lot of staking. The tomatoes have to be picked before they're red or they'll split. As far as the flavor goes, well I find the Cherry Punch is sweeter than the standard vining cherry tom.Date published: 2015-08-13Rated 5 out of 5 by mtngardener from Now that's sweet! Cherry punch hybrid is a wonderfully sweet, low maintenance cherry tomato that grows beautifully in a pot. I won't let a summer go by without one flourishing on my patio.Date published: 2014-09-17Rated 5 out of 5 by CitizenKate from Great Cherry Tomato Growing this tomato is such a pleasure, it's got a very compact build with dense, lush foliage, that's easy to manage. The plant is hardy and it's very easy to keep it healthy, I've had no issues so far, even in the Kansas heat. They're doing great in 5-gallon sub-irrigating ("self-watering") containers. The tomatoes grow in really dense clusters, and they get to a nice size for cherry tomatoes. They started to ripen 43 days after transplant, right on schedule! The tomatoes are very juicy and flavorful. I will definitely grow these again next year and start some for my friends as well.Date published: 2014-07-26Rated 5 out of 5 by Staco1 from Strongest, Healthiest Plants I grew more than 10 tomato varieties from seed this year and I am blown away by how strong, green and sturdy these plants are. They absolutely stand out among all of the other varieties. I would give anything to have all of my plants start out this way. When considering the nutiritional perks, these are a fantastic tomato variety that I will grow every year!Date published: 2014-05-23Rated 5 out of 5 by Iggy from Superb Cherry Tomato Started these from seed. Good strong plants that had an abundance of bright red "cherries". These had an amazing tomato taste and even though we had a dry summer continued to produce large bunches into September.Date published: 2013-10-03Rated 5 out of 5 by citygrower from great tomato I am not normally a huge fan of cherry tomatoes but this variety has won me over. The flavor is outstanding, more like what you would expect from one of the larger varieties. The plants arrived healthy and grew rapidly in the garden. The vines are brittle and will snap if you try to move them but they are incredibly disease resistant. The tomato blight has killed the Roma tomatoes but these show very little sign of disease. The vines are still producing and the flavor is still pretty good even though it has gotten much cooler at night. I might try these in containers next year to free up a bit more space in the garden.Date published: 2013-09-06Rated 5 out of 5 by Lyle from nice variety I grew this last year in both containers and garden soil. I also grew several other cherry tomato varieties at the same time for comparison. I had initially purchased it for the nutritional boost, but I was surprised and delighted to find a really excellent cherry tomato variety as well. It has a unique set of characteristics that I really enjoyed. First, the flavor is quite good and I personally found it to be one of my favorites. The productivity is very good as well. The characteristics that stood out for me though were the compactness and the adaptability to many conditions. It hardly needed any staking because the stems are so erect, stocky and firm. The plants were not overly large and could fit into smaller spaces than most tomatoes, even while yielding an equivalent amount. It grew fast and started early. The productivity was equal in containers and regular garden plots, which really surprised me. It is an excellent container variety if your containers are at least a gallon in size or preferably 5 gallons. It does have one down side, but all the good characteristics seem to override its one Achilles heel. Namely, it does poorly in wind storms and will snap into two pieces if the winds are strong. They are more prone to this type of damage than any other type of tomato I have grown. I had a few snap into two, but they regrew from the lower stem quite nicely. I recommend keeping them supported well if you expect a wind storm.Date published: 2013-06-04Rated 5 out of 5 by Kevlarmorte from Kept going and going... These got off to a slow start in a 18 gal smart pot but ended up out producing the other cherries in similar containers 5 to 1. They tolerated the excessive heat of last year exceedingly well. Very compact plants made a few tomatoes in early July but were covered in small cherries from end of july until a hard freeze in mid-Nov. They had very good flavor as well. Excellent production without the excessive vining of my other cherry and grape types. I will definitely plant these next year.Date published: 2013-01-14