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Tomato, Black Krim Heirloom Organic

Short Description

HEIRLOOM. Medium-sized, very dark maroon beefsteak, with wonderfully rich flavor.

Full Description

This medium-sized, very dark maroon beefsteak, with wonderfully rich flavor, originated in Crimea, a peninsula in the Black Sea with perfect "tomato summers". Extremely tasty. Certified Organic Seed.
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Item#: 68530A
Order: 1 Pkt. (50 seeds)
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$4.95
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Product properties

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

80 days

Fruit Weight The average weight of the fruit produced by this product.

8 ounces

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

18 inches

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

36-42 inches

Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

Indoor Sow

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Tomatoes- Staking and Caging
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Sow tomato seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼  inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Tomatoes should be set 30-48 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 3-4 feet apart. It can be tempting to space tomatoes more closely at planting time, but if you plant too closely you will increase the chance of disease, and decrease yields.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Tomatoes can be planted deeply, with the stem buried to the first set of leaves. The more deeply they are planted the more roots will form, providing the plant with additional support and better ability to take up nutrients. Some gardeners plant tomatoes by digging a horizontal trench and laying the plant in the trench with the top 2-4 inches of the plant pointing upward.
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Place your plant support at this time. You can try tomato cages or staking. Unsupported plants will sprawl on the ground, require no pruning, and will probably produce a larger yield of smaller fruit than will staked plants. For larger, cleaner, more perfect fruits, support plants as they grow. Growing on stakes: Place strong stakes in the ground and set plants about 6 inches from the stakes. Growing in cages: Place a cage around a single plant; let the vines grow and enlarge within the cage, no pruning  will be necessary

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for tomatoes as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2 inches of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • If growing on stakes: As the plants grow, allow only one or two main stems to grow and pinch out any other side shoots as they form. Gently tie the one or two remaining shoots to the stake; don't pull them tightly against the stake. If growing in cages, no pruning is necessary.
  • Whether to remove the side shoots, or suckers, that grow out of the leaf axils or not depends on the support system used. Gardeners using stakes usually snap off these side shoots. They typically get earlier and larger tomatoes but overall production tends to be less. If tomatoes are grown in cages, the suckers are generally left on, although it's a good idea to pinch the tip out of them when they are 6-8 inches long. Regardless you may want to remove all the growth from the bottom 6-10 inches of the plant. This helps to improve air circulation and reduce the spread of diseases such as early blight. Wait until the plants are knee-high. In the morning when the plants have the most water in them, snap off the lower growth while it is small. Any plants that look sick with distorted foliage or have a mosaic pattern on the leaves should be removed as they may have a virus that can spread to the other plants. It is best to do this early in the season.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Determinate tomato plants ripen a heavy crop over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties bear fruit continuously till frost. Remember that the days to harvest refers to the time from setting out transplants in the garden.
  • Pick tomatoes when they are as ripe as possible. They should be fully colored and firm and picked regularly to avoid overloading plants.
  • At the end of the season, when you know there will be a frost, pick all the almost-ripe tomatoes you can, and ripen them in brown bags or spread on newspapers at room temperature. Many cultivars will store for months. Store only sound fruit, at 50-60°F. Do NOT refrigerate and try to avoid having the fruit touch each other.
  • The foliage of tomatoes is toxic and should not be eaten.
  • Tomato fruits are enjoyed in many cooked dishes as a flavoring. Use them to make soups, sauces, stews, ketchup, paste, juice, quiche, and pies. Add them to curries, casseroles, and chutney.
Days To Maturity
80 days
Fruit Weight
8 ounces
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
18 inches
Height
36-42 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Planting Time
Spring
Sow Time
6-8 weeks BLF
Thin
36 inches
Life Cycle
Annual
Tomato, Black Krim Heirloom Organic is rated 4.6 out of 5 by 5.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great taste Actually, this plant was given to me, so I did not purchase it from Burpee. I experimented with growing it and two other tomato varieties in the greenhouse, and it is still producing in December. The plant is huge in height, and tomatoes are so flavorful for fresh, quick eating or used in recipes. Buy it. You won't be disappointed. We used a blossom spray, and that worked great.
Date published: 2014-12-09
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Black Krim Heirloom Tomato This is the tomato with the richest tastiest flavor that I have ever found. I just love them. You have to be careful because the top is dark, so you can easily miss that they are ripe and will lose them. You have to look at the underside to see when they are ripe. If you cut a regular tomato and place it beside a cut Black krim, it will look pale in comparison. The Black Krim is dense, rich, dark red inside and full of flavor. It is fantastic on a sandwich, hamburger, in a salad or just to eat like an apple, or cut it if you prefer. I have been gardening for over 50 years and absolutely love these. Nachodon
Date published: 2014-09-18
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Black Krim Black Krim is a very tasty tomato, however, I had very few that made it to the table. Had a lot of trouble with cracking and open bloom ends.
Date published: 2014-08-09
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Tasty Purchased this plant from Burpee, and it was re-potted mid July, so I got a late start on it. In mid Sept, this month, I harvested all the tomatoes on the plant, along with other plants because I had grown them in planters, and it was getting too cool at night in the northwest. So, I put all my early harvest of tomatoes in my greenhouse in paper bags to ripen, and the first ones were the Black Krim. My husband had never even heard of this tomato until I gave him some slices. And NOW, that's all he can even talk about. He wants me to order the seeds and start them in the greenhouse and make it my entire focus until Dec. I have to admit, they are very good, and I am so pleased my husband loves them. Thank you, Burpee!
Date published: 2012-09-28
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Great taste odd form Knowing these are heirloom, the small inclusion in the bottom does seem more pronounced in my garden. Also, I do get spiral cracks in the top greener portion. This could be due to the dry hot July we have been having here in the Northeast/ Mid Atlantic over the last two seasons and the wetter slightly cooler August. I planted both years ('11-'12) outdoors post last frost. All germination from seeds were excellent. Growth is average, but a bit awkwardly vining compared to more established varieties. In that I mean it wants to vine outward rather than upward. Yield is OK so far compared to other varieties. Taste, though, is incredibly different than standard slicing/ beefsteak tomatoes. More acidic, higher flesh to seed and pith ratio. The only downside I see is the bottom which turns a medium to deep purple is contrasted by a top that stays green and a bit more bitter. I believe next year with a bit of mulching on top of the dirt and a deeper bed there will be no problem with cracking (/hope). Original Method: Raised Boxes 5", local dirt (clay) amended with composted dirt 70/30 mix. Sun: Full Water: Hose Early season May, June, July(when ground dry completely) No irrigation mid July to end of season.
Date published: 2012-08-11
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