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Honeyberries Gardening Guide

How to Plant Honeyberries

Upon arrival, check containers for moisture, if not moist to the touch, add water and allow the containers to drain. If you are not ready to plant, keep plants in a semi-shaded and protected area. Do try and plant as soon as possible, the sooner in the ground, the sooner roots will be made. Until planting, keep the soil moist to the touch; do not allow the containers to dry out.

When planting, dig the hole at least 11/2 to 2 times the size of the container. Planting height is important, attempt to set the plant in the hole at the exact depth of the soil in the pot, it’s better to be a 1/2 high, than a 1/2 low. When you back-fill the hole, if your soil is good, use that soil, but if you feel your soil can be improved, back-fill with a good organic soil or compost. If your soil tends to dry out, you can add a little peat moss, if your soil is moist, a little sand can be added.

Caring for Honeyberries

Honeyberries are very easy to grow, hardy and adaptable, they will form a nice small shrub in the range of 5-6' tall and a 4' spread. Soil ph is very widespread from 5 to nearly 8, with 6.5 perfect. Plants will produce fruit at a very young age, full production by year 3. Honeyberries, because of their strong growth habit are heavy feeders. They need to be fed twice annually, early spring and after fruiting with a well balanced 10–10–10 fertilizer. Pollination is achieved by insects moving pollen from flower to flower. Rooting is not deep, pay attention to moisture, as soil dries out on surface, plants will need to be watered. Prune after fruiting is over to encourage new growth, which will be the fruit producing wood next season.

Read the next Article: Hardy Kiwi Gardening Guide

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Gardening Tip of the Day

  • To quickly apply a layer of mulch across a large vegetable or flowerbed, first cover the plants with empty containers. Pots, boxes, cans, used yogurt containers, bushel baskets, or any other containers will suffice—even garbage cans for larger plants such as freshly planted shrubs and perennials. This way you won't have to worry about smothering the plants with mulch or stepping on them as you spread the mulch in the bed. This also keeps the mulch from piling against the base of each plant, which could result in rot and disease problems. When you're finished applying the mulch, simply remove the containers. Beautiful!