Extremely tasty, savory and robust. Very productive.
Good as Gold, the 2012 taste test champ scores big points for beauty, flavor and productivity. This green-to-golden orange 7" Italian pepper is extremely tasty, savory and robust whether grilled, sauteed or fresh. Cooking only enhances the fine flavor.
Some flowers and vegetables fall into subcategories that may define how they grow (such as pole or bush), what they are used for (such as slicing tomatoes or shelling peas), flower type, or other designations that will help you select the type of a class of plant that you are looking for.
Days To Maturity
The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.
The average size of the fruit produced by this product.
The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.
The width of the plant at maturity.
The typical height of this product at maturity.
Starting seeds indoors is called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds indoors in the spring or summer
When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for spring
Starting seeds outdoors is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the spring or summer
Start Indoors Fall
Starting seeds indoors in the fall called Indoor Sow or Indirect Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
Transplant Fall-When to transplant bulbs or roots in the garden for fall
Start Outdoors Fall
Starting seeds outdoors in the fall is called Outdoor Sow or Direct Sow and these dates are when to sow seeds outdoors in the fall
First Date: Feb-22 - Last Date: Mar-07
First Date: May-02 - Last Date: May-30
How to Sow and Plant
Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost.
Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days
As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow.
Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet apart.
Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
Use a plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil.
How to Grow
Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected.
Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.
Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached.
Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red.
Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red.
Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling.
A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way.
Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes. When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes.
Days To Maturity
8-12 weeks BLF
Pepper, Sweet, Good as Gold Hybrid is rated
3.9 out of
Rated 4 out of
waiting to turn from greenI have 1 pepper growing on 1 plant and 2 on another. All three peppers are still green, 2 of them are 5 inches long! Look very hearty and hope they turn orange soon to eat!
Date published: 2017-07-10
Rated 4 out of
I grew these last year, and have never had such a productive pepper. They handled the Georgia heat well, and produced beautiful large sweet yellow peppers all summer, right up until the first frost.
The only bad thing about them was how fragile the plants are. It was difficult to pull peppers off without shaking the plant, at which point an entire branch with 5-8 green peppers would break clean off (and the green ones were just about inedible, although I made relish from the couple dozen that were still growing when I pulled the plants up in November.) Be sure you stake them well or cage them, and be very careful moving around the plants. But otherwise, I fully recommend these.
Date published: 2016-03-01
Rated 4 out of
Prolific producerThis pepper kept on producing right up until the hard frost. I got over 20 large gold sweet peppers from the one plant. We had so many we could not eat them all fresh so I roasted and froze them. Excellent crisp sweet snacking pepper. We are using them in sauces and on sandwiches. Will plant again this year and hope for a repeat season.
Date published: 2015-01-11
Rated 5 out of
Beautiful and tastyThere were my earliest yellow/orange peppers to turn color, and they had a lovely sweet and citrusy taste. Good productivity even in a cool summer. This is my first real success when it comes to sweet peppers (I've tried at least 8 varieties over the years) and I will be planting these again next year.
Date published: 2014-10-04
Rated 5 out of
Absolutely Love This Pepper Variety!This was my second year purchasing these plants from Burpee. What can I say? They are extremely productive and produce for a long season. Their flavor is wonderful - sweet and tender - great cooked or uncooked. Even if they need to be picked late in the season while they are green, they will "ripen" and change to a yellow-gold color on your counter in a paper bag.
Date published: 2014-09-21
Rated 4 out of
sweetGood as Gold is very sweet when cooked up. I love the deep gold color. It changes from green to gold very quickly. Many of the fruit had a black spot near the bottom so we couldn't sell them, but they were still sweet. It was a very, very cold and wet spring and summer - that may be why they had a black spot. Now that the fall is drier, though still very cool, they continue to produce abundantly and fewer with the black spot. We'll plant them again next year. A handsome and tasty pepper. Everything we grew this year was challenged by the cool and wet weather.
Date published: 2013-09-29
Rated 5 out of
Sweet and deliciousThese plants have been producing lots of peppers and have held up well to one of the toughest springs this area has seen in decades. The peppers come out looking quite similar to anaheims when they first appear, but have ripened into a nice yellow color. These have been the best sweet peppers we've enjoyed recently.
I expect to be growing these again next year!
Date published: 2013-09-16
Rated 4 out of
Finally a good pepper for my regionBecause I have a hard time growing peppers in dirt I grew these in an autopot. I planted from seed in December and transplanted to the autopot in march. They have produced lots of good sized peppers. Only issue is they only turned partially gold.
I will grow these guys again next year.