Pepper, Sweet, Flavorburst Hybrid
Beat out all others in our taste tests.
Days To Maturity
8-12 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
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How to Sow and Plant
- Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost.
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow.
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet inches apart.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
- Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.
- Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached.
- Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red.
- Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red.
- Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling.
- A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way.
- Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes. When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes.
Days To Maturity72 daysFruit Size4 inchesSunFull SunSpread12 inchesHeight18-24 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time8-12 weeks BLFThin36 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Pepper, Sweet, Flavorburst Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 14.Rated 5 out of 5 by HokieHort from Nearly perfect This is the bell pepper variety all others will be gauged against from now on in my garden. Huge yields, blowing out of the water other varieties labeled as "high yielding", tough as nails (heat and drought tolerant), good vigor (plant size was adequate to support fruit), taste was above-average and they are thick-walled, being useful in a number of ways in the kitchen. What more could you ask for?Date published: 2015-03-07Rated 5 out of 5 by Sheilanature from Sweet and delicious As the fall days shortened I harvested the remaining green and they ripened up on my counter placed in a fruit bowl with apples and bananas in just a few days without getting soft!Date published: 2014-11-02Rated 5 out of 5 by BC2014gardener from another good crop We've grown these peppers for 3 of the last 4 years and are always pleased with the taste, number of fruits, and length of season. Plus they stay crisp for a long time. This will now be a permanent fixture in our vegetable garden.Date published: 2014-09-21Rated 1 out of 5 by Mrscoffield from Disappointed After reading great reviews, I was excited to try out this pepper from seed. I've generally had a good experience with burpee seeds but this one was a dud. The germination rate was poor, around 30% and out of my 3 plants that made it to seedlings, none of them did anything but produce a few tiny leaves. Things in the same bed were growing fine, so I'm not sure what happened to these. Maybe I just got a batch of poor seeds. I will probably look for something else to try next year.Date published: 2013-09-12Rated 5 out of 5 by Carpetbagger1 from Have their name for a reason The marketers got it right when they named these. I grow them every year, and people that try them are always amazed. I start them from seed, and enjoy giving seedlings to friends who've bought pepper plants from one of the big box stores. Invariably they come back later in the year wishing they had more of these. This past year they produced into November, and produced more significantly from August on as opposed to the first half of the summer. Try them. You won't be disappointed.Date published: 2012-03-04Rated 5 out of 5 by BillTMcD from Love this pepper! I started early this year growing seeds indoors and when I was called out of town for work, I planted eary too, around the 2nd week of march. This plant had no problems with a couple of chilly nights, and has been vigorous and healthy all summer. I put 8 of these in my veg garden and they have all been strong producers. Big bells, the best success Ive had with bell peppers. I am going through a strong second flush of fruit now. Dont wait for the bell to get too big or go completely yellow, you will miss its light texture and wonderful tastes. Pick like you see in the photo!Date published: 2011-07-24Rated 5 out of 5 by DreamingOfAutumn from Pretty and Yummy! I ordered three of these plants this year. One of the plants yields very small peppers, almost the size of banana peppers. The other two have nice large peppers. I'm not sure why the one has such tiny peppers, but my 3 year old loves them, they are the perfect size for him. They take awhile to ripen, but they are worth the wait. I have picked about 15 peppers so far and have at least 50 more on the plants. I am very pleased!Date published: 2010-09-09Rated 4 out of 5 by funcook from 2008 & 2009 We grew these both years, 2008 was a good year for peppers in our Midwest garden and these peppers were acceptable, not heavy yielding, but nice taste and attractive. 2009 was a cold, wet spring and cool summer, none of the peppers did too well. Flavorburst did not do well, very low production. We'll give them one more chance in 2010.Date published: 2010-02-01