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Pepper, Hot, Sweet Heat Hybrid

Short Description

Sweet and hot with 65% higher vitamin C than average peppers.

Full Description

A perfectly calibrated blend of sweetness and heat, with a big nutritional bonus. Red peppers boast 65% higher vitamin C than average peppers. 10" tall plants bear 3.5" x 1.5" fruit in 52-56 days. Gentle heat at 329 Scoville units when green; 235 when red.
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Item#: 65100A
Order: 1 Pkt. (20 Seeds)
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Pepper, Hot, Sweet Heat Hybrid
Pepper, Hot, Sweet Heat Hybrid, , large
Item #: 65100A
1 Pkt. (20 Seeds)
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Item#: 22076
Order: 3 Plants
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Pepper, Hot, Sweet Heat Hybrid
Pepper, Hot, Sweet Heat Hybrid, , large
Item #: 22076
3 Plants
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Product properties

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

52 days

Fruit Size The average size of the fruit produced by this product.

3 inches

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

12-16 inches

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

10-13 inches

Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

Indoor Sow

Plant Shipping Information

Plants begin shipping on:

Aug 29, 2016

(Click here for fall shipping schedule)


Item 22076 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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Container Vegetables - Tomato, Pepper & Eggplant
Growing tomatoes, peppers and even eggplants in containers on your deck, porch or patio!
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost.
  • Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow.
  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet apart.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use a plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil.

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
  • Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.
  • Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached.
  • Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red.
  • Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red.
  • Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling.
  • A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way.
  • Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes. When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes.
Days To Maturity
52 days
Fruit Size
3 inches
Full Sun
12-16 inches
10-13 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Planting Time
Sow Time
8-12 weeks BLF
24 inches
Life Cycle
Pepper, Hot, Sweet Heat Hybrid is rated 4.076923076923077 out of 5 by 13.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great pepper Hot,Smokey and Sweet. Great for salsa, chili, and straight from the plant.
Date published: 2016-09-15
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Energy Will will feel the boost in energy eating one of these. not like a jittery feeling like sugar or caffeine.
Date published: 2016-01-25
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Just the right "bite" of heat I grew Sweet Heat peppers in 2012-2013 from seed started in my greenhouse. Peppers love heat, so no surprise their peak production here is July-September and these plants are prolific producers! We have raised garden beds that are heavily amended with composted soil. We are also all organic. The pepper's heat is unlike a jalapeno, and what I mean by that is where the heat is felt in the mouth. The spice/heat will stay in the front of the mouth/tongue, unlike the steady heat affecting the entire mouth and even throat for jalapenos. Note: I feel it is important and far more helpful when submitting a review to indicate where you live, what your soil is like, and your method of fertilization. All of these can and do affect the plant survival and production! Our Texas climate embraces the success of pepper growing and these sweet heat peppers are winners. The photo I have included are of very young plants, they had only been in the ground 4 weeks out of the greenhouse, 2012 pic.
Date published: 2015-12-26
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Love the Smokey, Sweet Heat! I've been trying to research further and can't find any information on the internet. Does anyone know what types of peppers this is a hybrid of? It's less heat than a jalapeno, but there is a smokey aspect that I love! It's going to be great in sauces once it matures more.
Date published: 2014-06-04
Rated 2 out of 5 by from Produces SOME peppers 1/3 Plants survived. Surviving plant was only strong enough to produce one pepper over a period of time, even with suggested watering and fertilizing regimens. Peppers stayed green, never turned red (until close to rotting). Not likely to try growing again.
Date published: 2013-09-27
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Excellent Sweet Pepper The Sweet Heat pepper is very prolific and produces some of the most tastiest pepper i have ever ate. I let mine turn completely red that is when they seem to be sweetest. My plant was in a 7 gal. container and was short but kept producing some big peppers some bigger than the description. If your looking for a good sweet pepper that has a real fruity taste get this a definite winner in my book
Date published: 2013-01-24
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Great Hybrid This pepper is so great, there is a sweet smokey flavor to the flesh, I can plug these right off the plant and eat one. There is a real distinct variation though from red to green. If there is any green on the fruit at all, that area of the pepper will have a little extra heat kick. Beautiful fruit. Real surprised with how the plant grows too...It is kind of a large cluster of so good.
Date published: 2012-09-18
Rated 4 out of 5 by from So far, so good! Actually purchased this plant already started. Pacific NW summers are not reliable for growing peppers, so starting from seed is not often a good option. Can't remember the size of the pot - 4 or 6 inches before I potted it up to a 10 inch pot. This plant is loaded with peppers for such a small plant. 20 or 30. Have to admit to keeping it in my greenhouse (a cold greenhouse, unheated). Brought it out a week or so ago, still in a pot and doing great. Not turning red yet, but peppers are just reaching mature size. Keeping my fingers crossed that our summer weather is here to stay for another month or so..... As for another review from a 'master gardener'. I am as well, and I still make my share of mistakes. It's all about trying something new. Sucess is often more to do with Mother Nature, and not our 'masterful' skills. Drought, damping off, pests.....can't blame the seed on that!
Date published: 2012-08-08
  • 2016-10-26T06:41CST
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