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Pepper, Hot, Lemon

Short Description

HEIRLOOM. From Ecuador, as hot as any Cayenne, but with a truly unique flavor.

Full Description

This pepper from the markets of Ecuador ripens to a pure lemon yellow in about 80 days, but it is delightfully flavorful when green. The skin is tender and the aroma is spicy, with a hint of pine woods. As hot as any cayenne but with a truly unique flavor. Best used fresh, but it's sensational in sauces too. The fruits are narrow, 3-4" long and distinctively wrinkled.
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Item#: 54320A
Order: 1 Pkt. (30 seeds)
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$5.95
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Item#: 20249
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Pepper, Hot, Lemon
Pepper, Hot, Lemon, , large
Item #: 20249
3 Plants
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Product properties

Days To Maturity The average number of days from when the plant is actively growing in the garden to the expected time of harvest.

70-80 days

Fruit Size The average size of the fruit produced by this product.

3-4 inches

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

16 inches

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

18-24 inches

Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

Indoor Sow

Plant Shipping Information

Plants begin shipping on:

Sep 12, 2016

(Click here for fall shipping schedule)

Restrictions:

Item 20249 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
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Container Vegetables - Tomato, Pepper & Eggplant
Growing tomatoes, peppers and even eggplants in containers on your deck, porch or patio!
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How to Sow and Plant

  • Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost.
  • Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
  • Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
  • Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Planting in the Garden:

  • To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow.
  • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
  • Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet apart.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball. 
  • Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development. 
  • Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water. 
  • Use a plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.  
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil.

How to Grow

  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating. 
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
  • Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed.

Harvesting and Preserving Tips

  • Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.
  • Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached.
  • Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red.
  • Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red.
  • Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling.
  • A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way.
  • Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes. When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes.
Days To Maturity
70-80 days
Fruit Size
3-4 inches
Sun
Full Sun
Spread
16 inches
Height
18-24 inches
Sow Method
Indoor Sow
Planting Time
Spring
Sow Time
8-12 weeks BLF
Thin
24 inches
Life Cycle
Annual
Pepper, Hot, Lemon is rated 4.111111111111111 out of 5 by 36.
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Best producing plant we've grown! Very fast shipping. This is my husbands favorite of all the hot peppers and he grows them all. Even ghost. He says these are the best tasting and the plants we got from burpee gave him the best producing season we've ever had! WI'll definately be buying these again from burpee
Date published: 2016-09-19
Rated 4 out of 5 by from The three plants arrived in great shape and have thrived. They are producing prodigious amounts of finger sized lemon yellow peppers, more than I can eat.
Date published: 2016-09-16
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Hot Lemon Peppers Growing great,lots of peppers still growing Peppers flavorful
Date published: 2016-09-15
Rated 2 out of 5 by from wrong pepper seeds in the package I purchased 2 packets of these Burpee Seeds from A local Walmart. I find that lemon drop type hot pepper seeds are hard to find and my previous are too old. I started them in February and they all germinated. I planted 4 in my Urban garden plot. Two months later my peppers are ready to pick except they are not lemon peppers they are orange habaneros. I have never planted habaneros and do not have seed for them. I gave them and are still giving them away since they are very happy with this almost record hot summer in New York. Funny note about this quality problem …….I looked up the Orange Habanero to see what folks said. One person noted that they got RED peppers off their plant. Hmmmmmmm someone has a quality control problem! I think I might have to look elsewhere when I need these seeds since I can’t waste the space in my small garden. I need to know they are what they are labeled as.
Date published: 2016-09-10
Rated 1 out of 5 by from More like an Ornamental I ordered Hot Lemon as a mixed 3-pack of plants along with Biker Billy and Block Party as a way to get my husband into gardening since he loves hot peppers. The plants arrived May 8 with healthy roots and sturdy stalks in nice packaging. Because last frost wasn’t predicted until Mother’s Day, I didn’t plant them until May 23. They were tucked into a raised bed with a mixture of 1/3 Peat Moss, 1/3 Vermiculite and 1/3 organic compost. These peppers were slow to get going. I’m not sure if the 7 inches of rain we had in June had anything to do with it, but I only had two miniature yellow peppers to pick by August 29. By then the plant was covered in green peppers in various stages of ripening and this continued into October. The flavor was terrible! They tasted like what a tomato plant smells like and were fiery hot. The largest pepper only grew 2 inches long. This seems to be more of an ornamental plant than anything, I certainly won’t be growing this again. On a positive note, this plant won't die! I'm pretty sure if I moved it indoors it would keep on producing.
Date published: 2015-10-04
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Beautiful in a large container I planted 3 young plants into a whiskey barrel planter. The plants are very attractive, fairly compact and rounded, and the peppers are so attractive they are almost ornamental. We've been eating them green, and they have a really interesting, flavor, hot without being overwhelming. Good on pizza, in eggs, sandwiches, anywhere you want a little kick. they are thin walled so will not stand up to much frying. I will probably grow them again next year, that's how much I enjoyed them - and I NEVER repeat plants.
Date published: 2015-08-24
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Hot and tasty! These peppers get crazy hot if you like that. Makes very spicy salsa. Huge producer, I had to freeze/can massive amounts of them.
Date published: 2015-08-16
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Bad Germination and Slow Growers I've tried starting this 3 separate times since February and it's now almost May and the ones that have come up still don't have true leaves yet and the seedlings are dwarfish. I probably have planted 30 of these seeds, 24 recently after the first six didn't do anything and have three alive, two have recently randomly died. I have purchased many seeds from Burpee and all have amazing germination, but these. I will finish this packet and maybe get another one next year hoping my troubles were just a bad batch.
Date published: 2015-04-27
  • 2016-09-29T07:20CST
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