Pepper, Hot, Cheyenne Hybrid
Cayenne-type peppers balance sweetness and heat.
Days To Maturity
8-12 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
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How to Sow and Plant
- Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost.
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow.
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet inches apart.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
- Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.
- Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached.
- Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red.
- Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red.
- Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling.
- A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way.
- Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes. When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes.
Days To Maturity64 daysFruit Size5-6 inchesSunFull SunSpread28 inchesHeight36 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time8-12 weeks BLFThin24 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Pepper, Hot, Cheyenne Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 4.Rated 5 out of 5 by AceUnderwood from Wonderful, versatile, and hot! I loved this pepper! I used it in fresh salsa, on pizza, in chili, in quesadillas, and in recipes that called for either Jalapenos or Cayenne. The plant took a little longer to really "get going" than I expected, especially since our weather was steadily in the mid-80s by the time the (very lush and healthy) plant arrived. But once it got going, it really got going! I saw another reviewer comment that they only got a few, very big peppers. I suspect that may have been a fertilization issue, or else a case of flowers dropping off due to dramatic shifts in weather. My plant had LOTS of flowers and most of them resulted in fruits…which also meant that the peppers weren't that big (about 3 inches each at maturity), since the plant was spread thin ripening lots of peppers at a time. I found them to be a perfect size--very versatile. I was so fond of this plant that at the end of November I dug it up in advance of any Dec/Jan frost danger, and am in the process of making it into a Bonchi. Its stem is about the circumference of my thumb, and it should make a beautiful pepper bonzai "tree." In March it's going right back into the garden for next year!Date published: 2015-11-30Rated 4 out of 5 by professosprout from Cheyenne peppers Started peppers in May in cold frame and transplanted to garden June 3 after last light frosts; plants grew to just over 2 feet but have produced well with 15 to 18 peppers each; the peppers are however green and just now turning red by September 30th; we will have a hard frost tonight so will pick them green for a ristra and will see what happens. We did have a cool summer and an extended growing season without frosts but the plants did not yield within the 64 day maturity as given.Date published: 2015-09-30Rated 4 out of 5 by bebsir3 from Astonishingly good chili! Poor yield. This is really a fantastic chili. Its medium-thick walled, has delicious pepper flavor(!), and is amazingly sweet! Each chili is 7"+ long, and 1.5"+ in diameter at the base. This plant is a bit leggy at 36", with 5"+ between branches. If I grow this plant again, I may attempt to keep it trimmed down. The only disappointment is that I'm only getting 2-3 chilies per plant, (along side other varieties that are producing in abundance). This is a real shame because I would devote significant space to this plant next year if it was a better producer. If you're a chili connoisseur, you owe it to yourself to give this a try. Who knows, maybe you'll get a better yield. If you're tight for garden space like I am, it may not be the best use of your footage. I give the chili a solid 5 stars, but the plants itself 4.Date published: 2014-07-30Rated 4 out of 5 by Funk67 from Cheyenne Growing this hybrid is a first for me this year, amongst about 20 other varieties of hot peppers. I was surprised by the heat level. This one is a scorcher. I had one off the grill this evening, along side some pesto linguine, and it lit the fire. Release the endorphin hounds! I would estimate the Scoville to be about 100,000, yet there is a sweetness along side that is not there in other varieties of that level. The color is a beautifully blazing red that is highly fluorescent.Date published: 2013-09-05