Pepper, Hot, Biker Billy Hybrid
A blazingly hot jalapeno—the hottest we've ever tasted.
Days To Maturity
8-12 weeks BLF
Plant Shipping Information
Item 19133 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GA, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI See all Burpee plant shipping restrictions for your state
How to Sow and Plant
- Only home gardeners who enjoy long growing seasons in the Deep South should attempt to sow pepper seeds directly in the vegetable garden. Most of us must start our own pepper plants indoors about 8-10 weeks before transplanting, which should be done 2-3 weeks after the expected last frost.
- Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula
- Keep the soil moist at 75 degrees F
- Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 3 pairs of leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting in the Garden:
- To get an early start with your pepper plants, particularly in the North, cover the prepared bed with a dark colored polyethylene mulch at least a week before transplanting. This will heat the soil beneath and provide a better growing condition for young pepper plants. The mulch will also help the soil retain moisture throughout the season as the pepper plants grow.
- Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Make sure you did not grow tomatoes, peppers, eggplant or potatoes in the bed the previous year to avoid disease problems.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Peppers should be set 18 inches apart in a row with the rows spaced 2-3 feet inches apart.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Carefully remove the plant from its pot and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root development.
- Fill the planting hole with soil to the top and press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker. This is particularly important if you are trying different varieties. It is very difficult to tell which variety is which from the foliage.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Peppers may also be planted in containers. Use a container at least 18-24 inches wide and deep and use a commercial potting mix rather than garden soil.
How to Grow
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. This is especially important for peppers as their roots may be easily damaged when weeding, and this can lead to blossom end rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- Note that hot peppers tend to be hotter when they have less water and fertilizer. If they receive plenty of water and fertilizer they may be more mild than expected.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
- Try planting pepper plants near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots in your home vegetable garden. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. Peppers are very colorful when in full fruit and combine well with green herbs, okra, beans and cucumber fences in the garden bed.
Harvesting and Preserving Tips
- Like cucumbers and summer squash, peppers are usually harvested at an immature stage. The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers may be harvested at any stage, but their flavor doesn’t fully develop until maturity. Fully ripe peppers in multi-colors are delightful in the garden as well as in salads.
- Cut the fruit from the plant with a sharp knife or pruners leaving a small part of the stem attached.
- Sweet bell, pimento and cherry peppers are delicious eaten green but are sweeter and higher in vitamins if allowed to turn bright red before harvest. Some varieties are yellow at maturity or may mature from green through yellow and red.
- Hot peppers may be harvested at any stage. Anaheim is usually picked green and cayenne types red.
- Bell peppers may be chopped and quick frozen for use in many recipes; sweet cherry and banana peppers and hot cherry peppers are perfect for pickling.
- A popular and trouble-free way to store hot peppers is to dry them. String mature red peppers by piercing the stem with a needle and heavy thread. Hang the string in a warm, dry, airy place (not in the sun!) to dry. They can make a colorful kitchen accent. Pull a pepper from the string when you need one. Hot peppers remain hot even after they are dried. Remember that in recipes a little hot pepper can go a long way.
- Please note that hot peppers can burn sensitive skin on contact and fumes from grinding or cooking them can irritate the lungs and eyes. When working with hot peppers use rubber gloves and wash your hands before touching your face or eyes.
Days To Maturity66 daysFruit Size3-4 inchesSunFull SunSpread16 inchesHeight18-24 inchesSow MethodIndoor SowPlanting TimeSpringSow Time8-12 weeks BLFThin24 inchesLife CycleAnnual
Pepper, Hot, Biker Billy Hybrid is rated out of 5 by 43.Rated 5 out of 5 by Fisherman I from Prolific and Tasty I was saddened to see the frost coming because these babies held on till the end. Beautiful peppers. Great for stuffing. Also used in a terrific breakfast egg-bake. You won't go wrong with these.Date published: 2016-01-24Rated 1 out of 5 by Bizenko from Affected by Disease I ordered Biker Billy as a mixed 3-pack of plants along with Hot Lemon and Block Party as a way to get my husband into gardening. The plants arrived May 8 with healthy roots and sturdy stalks in nice packaging. Because last frost wasn’t predicted until Mother’s Day, I didn’t plant them until May 23. They were tucked into a raised bed with a mixture of 1/3 Peat Moss, 1/3 Vermiculite and 1/3 organic compost. I had blooms within 6 days of planting and the first 3 peppers appeared July 26. The peppers grew slowly and became victim to some sort of disease where the fruit and leaves started falling off. I only got to pick about five peppers in total and they never grew more than 2 inches long. My husband said the flavor wasn’t good and he wanted me to pull the plant. I left it in and in October it was still blooming and forming tiny fruit. I will pass on this variety next year.Date published: 2015-10-04Rated 5 out of 5 by 54Kitkat from Strong plant I planted shortly after I received these in the mail. In June 2015, we had a fire in the night that was 20 feet from the plants. The plant closest to the fire suffered heat damage and the branches died out. I was surprised to see that it was still producing fruit and new growth was coming from the bottom of the plant. Here it is the middle of July and I just know that this plant is going to produce enough peppers to keep me canning until the late frost. I won't be surprised if this plant is still going strong through winter.Date published: 2015-07-16Rated 5 out of 5 by AdoreStepanie from In love! I ordered the plants and they all have grown and started producing! Good size and so delicious.Date published: 2015-07-13Rated 3 out of 5 by RobbieBG from No HEAT! For the past 6ish years this is the only Jalapeno pepper I have grown. I have always had great luck with the Biker Billie Plants In the past theyhave been prolific producers as well as searingly hot(I like searingly hot). This year I have A LOT of peppers on the plants, but they are not hot in the least. They are so mild I am wondering in the plants were mislabeled I miss the heat so much I am only giving them a 3 Star Rating this year. Sorry Burpee.Date published: 2015-06-30Rated 1 out of 5 by Mason from Big let down I cannot express how excited I was to grow this jalapeño. Every single seed germinated, they were growing great, big leaves and green growth. Then they just stopped. Completely. The seeds sprouted in February, and in mid March, they stopped growing at 3-4" tall. To this very day, they are sitting in the garden with 3 leaves, doing nothing. No growth, no signs of nutrient deficiencies, no pest or bugs, no sun scorch. I will be amazed if they produce any fruit this year, much less start growing again. I've contacted numerous pepper growers and have followed their instructions on this matter, and nothing has worked. I might start one more plant to see if it's just bad luck on my part or bad seeds. Either way, I had to buy jalapeño plants from a nursery instead.Date published: 2015-06-16Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from Superb Jalapeño As I am trying to remove taste bud bias (Carolina Reapers seem almost hot enough,) I will judge it on flavor, not heat. It had a nice sweet flavor, but my wife would not agree. She determined that it was REALLY spicy. I enjoyed it in a salsa with the aptly-named Salsa tomato. My wife let me have it all, needless to say. Anyway, it is a great jalapeño if you don't want others eating your salsa.Date published: 2015-04-28Rated 5 out of 5 by CrabbyDollfin from The best of the best in jalapeno peppers I grow this jalapeno every year and i'm continually impressed by it. Such an awesome jalapeno.. the best / hottest out there. The fruit is perfect. I dice them and put them in everything. Great on hamburgers on the grill, poppers on the green egg, pepper jelly... you'll find reasons to use every one that grows. I grow three plants which i think is good for a family of 4. II accidently planted them too close to my tamotoes and they did better this year than last. Good producer, nice size, crisp fruit. The pic shows what I harvested in the 2nd week of production.Date published: 2014-07-12