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Lavender, Provence Blue

Short Description

Dazzling and unique.

Full Description

Silvery leaves grace tightly branched plants, topped with traditional blue spikes and make compact Provence Blue unique. Loves hot weather and is easy to grow.
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Item # Product
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Quantity
Price
Item#: 36055A
Order: 1 Pkt. (50 seeds)
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$4.95
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In Stock

Item#: 20692
Order: 1 Plant
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$12.95
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In Stock

Product properties

Sun

Full Sun

Life Cycle

Perennial

Height

18-20 inches

Spread

18-20 inches

Additional Uses

Container Plant, Fragrant

Planting Time

Fall, Spring

Plant Shipping Information

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Restrictions:

Item 20692 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI See all Burpee plant shipping restrictions for your state

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  • Lavender may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or planted as a potted plant

    Sowing Seed Indoors:

    • Sow lavender seeds indoors 6-10 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit.
    • Sow seeds ¼ inches deep in seed-starting formula in a south facing window or under grow lights until seedlings emerge.
    • Keep the soil moist at 70-80 degrees F
    • Seedlings emerge in 14-28 days
    • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
    • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
    • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

    Planting in the Garden:

    • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil.
    • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
    • The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
    • Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
    • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
    • Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
    • Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
    • Use the plant tag as a location marker.
    • Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
    • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination. 
    • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time.  Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
    • Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry.  One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
    • Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary.  Good air movement is also important.
    • After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer such as Garden-tone, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
    • In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this mulch in the spring.
    • Do not divide lavender, it is a small woody shrub rather than a spreading herbaceous perennial.
    • Prune out dead wood as needed.
    • Lavender may be grown in the herb garden, or perennial border, in containers, as a hedge.
    • Flowers and sprigs are perfect for dried arrangements, or used for culinary purposes and crafts.
  • Sun
    Full Sun
    Life Cycle
    Perennial
    Height
    18-20 inches
    Spread
    18-20 inches
    Additional Uses
    Container Plant, Fragrant
    Planting Time
    Fall, Spring
  • Lavender, Provence Blue is rated 3.8 out of 5 by 5.
    Rated 3 out of 5 by from I LOVE lavender and know that they thrive in our area, so I was so excited to try them in my own garden. I followed the directions on the seed packet and sprouts appeared, but then died back suddenly. Hoping for better luck when the weather cools again.
    Date published: 2012-06-29
    Rated 1 out of 5 by from Too Difficult I've tried this plant twice b/c I love the scent. After careful planting, fertilization etc both plants died after about a month. (zone 5)
    Date published: 2006-09-01
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Loving Lavender - Provence Blue Planted one plant in the spring,and wow all summer we had beautiful fragence and flowers.No special care just a beautiful plant.
    Date published: 2006-08-31
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Survival solution for Lavender I live in Central Florida and have lost no fewer that 20 different Lavender varieties to too much rain, too much sun and no telling what else. I planted 6 Lace and two days later they were GONE all but little strings of the stems. They were enclosed with chicken wire to keep the curious squirrels away so I know they didn't end up somethings lunch. Almost like they just evaporated. I finally decided Florida was just to hot and humid to support Lavenders. I then decided to try one last time and then give up if these didn't make it. I started by making a soil mixture of a 'certain' Potting Mix, Potting Soil, Soiless planting mix and Perlite. I mixed them in equal porportions and made the mix into a 3" raised bed in partial early morning sun and mid afternoon shade. To date (3 weeks now!!) they are doing GREAT. The soil drains well, I water just enough to wet the soil around the stem when dry and even the hard afternoon FL showers seem to be benificial since they now drain quickly (8 hours or so to slightly moist). Hard rains bend the stems but by the next day they're back up and looking good. New shoots are appearing and the leaves are thick and juicy. No flowers as yet but it's a little soon. I'll keep you posted and my fingers (thumbs) crossed.
    Date published: 2006-08-24
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from lavender-provence blue i think this is one of the most beautiful flowers ever
    Date published: 2006-07-10
    • 2016-02-14T06:09CST
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