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Lavender, Lady

Short Description

All-America Selections winner.

Full Description

Lady flowers the first year from seed, so this beautiful Burpee bred herb will grow as an annual north of Zone 5. With its compact habit, outstanding flowers and fragrance, it's excellent for edging, low hedges and containers.
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Item # Product
Item#: 61408A
Order: 1 Pkt. (750 seeds)
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Product properties

Sun Light Requirements

Full Sun

Days To Maturity null

90-200 days

Life Cycle null


Height null

16 inches

Spread null

16 inches

Additional Uses null

Container Plant

Sow Method null

Indoor Sow

Planting Time null

Spring, Summer

Soil pH null


Thin null

18 inches

the burpee




since 1876


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  • Lavender may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or planted as a potted plant

    Sowing Seed Indoors:

    • Sow lavender seeds indoors 6-10 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit.
    • Sow seeds ¼ inches deep in seed-starting formula in a south facing window or under grow lights until seedlings emerge.
    • Keep the soil moist at 70-80 degrees F
    • Seedlings emerge in 14-28 days
    • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
    • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
    • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

    Planting in the Garden:

    • Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil.
    • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
    • The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
    • Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
    • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
    • Unpot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
    • Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
    • Use the plant tag as a location marker.
    • Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
    • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination. 
    • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time.  Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
    • Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deeply. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry.  One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
    • Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary.  Good air movement is also important.
    • After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer such as Garden-tone, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
    • In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this mulch in the spring.
    • Do not divide lavender, it is a small woody shrub rather than a spreading herbaceous perennial.
    • Prune out dead wood as needed.
    • Lavender may be grown in the herb garden, or perennial border, in containers, as a hedge.
    • Flowers and sprigs are perfect for dried arrangements, or used for culinary purposes and crafts.
  • Sun
    Full Sun
    Days To Maturity
    90-200 days
    Life Cycle
    16 inches
    16 inches
    Additional Uses
    Container Plant
    Sow Method
    Indoor Sow
    Planting Time
    Spring, Summer
    Soil pH
    18 inches
  • Lavender, Lady is rated 2.875 out of 5 by 8.
    Rated 2 out of 5 by from Lavender is really hard to start from seed Mine all eventually succumbed to dampening off. It was not a great experience.
    Date published: 2014-11-18
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from excellent plants These were excellent plants but they never made it to maturity. They died out due to damage to the bed. I have repaired the bed and I will be replanting this spring.
    Date published: 2014-09-17
    Rated 4 out of 5 by from Very happy with selection. Planted the seeds indoors last year and transplanted them to a large pot. Forgot about them and found them thriving later in June. They have survived this year's brutal winter - actually stayed green all winter. Very pleased.
    Date published: 2010-03-08
    Rated 2 out of 5 by from Love the fragrance; Tolerate the appearance I bought 9 of the plants and only 4 of them are still with me. I am in zone 6 in MA so I am within the hardiness range listed above. I planted the lavender in full sun, gave them adequate but not too much moisture, and basically followed all of the other guidelines I could find on cultivating lavender. 5 of the plants grayed up and died within 2 months. The 4 remaining plants are really thriving, though - the fragrance is intoxicating! But I can't recommend this because of the less than 50% success rate I have experienced. Also, the plants that I have do not look as upright and gorgeous as in the photo. They're sprawling lazily about and the bloom is not nearly as full. Nonetheless the leafy parts are very healthy, vigorous and highly fragrant. My best guess is that this particular garden bed has soil that is too fertile for lavender. But soil that is too fertile shouldn't outright kill a plant. This is not a repeat order for me.
    Date published: 2008-11-08
    Rated 1 out of 5 by from Not worth it These germinated well but then were spindly and weak. they took weeks and weeks getting their second set of leaves. I did everything the books said to do with this lavender only to have a miserable experience.
    Date published: 2008-07-31
    Rated 3 out of 5 by from Lovely Idea, Not So Great Seed I love lavender and use it extensively in the home, so growing it is an imperative. Wanting to balance different textures and have some faster blooming plants, I got a packet of the Lady Lavender seeds to test. The germination rate was actually quite poor for this packet and of those that did make it to seedling stage, their growth was not impressive. While they are blooming as promised, these are paltry blooms not worth harvesting and the plant seems to have expended the energy it would have used toward growth during this time. Lavender has always been very tolerant of our blazing hot sun and hot, hot days of summer, but this plant is far less so than the true lavender I've been growing. I've had to relocate it to an area that misses the mid-day sun. The smell of the plants is just as delightful, however, and there is a nice contrast in texture with other lavender cultivars that draws the eye and encourages hands to brush the foliage. Since these plants are easily kept year round here, it may be that the second year is the one that lets them really shine and I'll update my review then.
    Date published: 2008-07-15
    Rated 1 out of 5 by from No luck from seed After starting indoors and accustoming outside as recommended, outside for a week they all died in the Dallas sun. I tried them in Idaho the year before with the same results only 3 sprouted even in the indoor peat pots. I'm really wanting some lavender though so I think buying from plant is my last option.
    Date published: 2008-06-21
    Rated 5 out of 5 by from Lady Lavendar Very hardy in Central Texas by A&M. My soil is high in Alkaline and heavy amounts of clay. This plant loves it here!
    Date published: 2007-04-06
    • 2016-02-10T06:16CST
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