How to Sow and Plant

Sowing Seed Indoors:

• Sow indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost in spring using a seed starting kit
• Sow seeds 1/8 inch deep in seed starting formula
• Keep the soil moist at 65-70 degrees F
• Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
• As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
• Thin to one seedling per cell when they have two sets of leaves.
• Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
• Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Sowing Directly in the Garden:

• Direct sow seeds in average soil in full sun after all danger of frost.
• Prepare the soil by removing weeds and working organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil; then level and smooth.
• Most plants respond well to soils amended with organic matter. Compost is a wonderful form of organic matter with a good balance of nutrients and an ideal pH level, it can be added to your planting area at any time. If compost is not available, top dress the soil after planting with 1-2 inches of organic mulch, which will begin to breakdown into compost. After the growing season, a soil test will indicate what soil amendments are needed for the following season.
• Sow seeds evenly 12 inches apart and cover with ¼ inch of fine soil.
• Firm soil lightly with your hand, water and keep evenly moist.
• Seedlings will emerge in 7-10 days.
• Thin seedlings to stand 12-18 inches apart, depending on the variety, when they are about 1-2 inches tall.

Planting in the Garden:

• Select a location in full sun with good rich moist organic soil. Blue Eye Daisies prefer an acid soil with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5.
• Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
• Most plants respond well to soils amended with organic matter. Compost is a wonderful form of organic matter with a good balance of nutrients and an ideal pH level, it can be added to your planting area at any time. If compost is not available, top dress the soil after planting with 1-2 inches of organic mulch, which will begin to breakdown into compost. After the growing season, a soil test will indicate what soil amendments are needed for the following season.
• Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
• Plants need to be spaced at least 12-18 inches apart.
• Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
• Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
• Use the plant tag as a location marker.

How to Grow

• Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
• Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For annuals an organic mulch of shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
• Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
• Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
• After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
• Remove spent flower heads to keep plants flowering until fall.
• Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
• Remove plants after they are killed by frost in fall to avoid disease issues the following year.

Growing Tips

• Plant Blue Eyed daises in mixed plantings with other summer-blooming annuals, or among perennials. They are at home in cottage and children’s gardens, and they are often grown in cutting gardens.
• Blue Eyed Daisies are ideal for containers. Always use a commercial potting mix, do not use garden soil, and make sure the containers have adequate drainage. Container grown plants will require extra water and fertilizer, look for signs of wilt or a nutrient deficiency.
• Cut stems when the flower is open for cut flowers.
• Blue Eyed Daisies attract butterflies and beneficial insects.

Common Disease Problems

Botrytis: This fungus causes a grey mold on flowers, leaves, stems and buds. It thrives in cool wet weather conditions. Burpee Recommends: Remove affected plant parts, avoid watering at night and getting water on the plant when watering. Make sure plants have good air circulation. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for fungicide recommendations.

Root Rots: A number of pathogens cause root rots of seedlings as well as mature roots. Burpee Recommends: Practice crop rotation and do not plant related crops in the same area for several years. Pull up and discard infected plants. Make sure your soil has excellent drainage. Contact your Cooperative Extension Service for recommendations.

Common Pest and Cultural Problems

Aphids: Greenish, red, black or peach colored sucking insects can spread disease as they feed on the undersides of leaves. They leave a sticky residue on foliage that attracts ants. Burpee Recommends: Introduce or attract natural predators into your garden such as lady beetles and wasps who feed on aphids. You can also wash them off with a strong spray, or use an insecticidal soap.

Spider Mites: These tiny spider-like pests are about the size of a grain of pepper. They may be red, black, brown or yellow. They suck on the plant juices removing chlorophyll and injecting toxins which cause white dots on the foliage. There is often webbing visible on the plant. They cause the foliage to turn yellow and become dry and stippled. They multiply quickly and thrive in dry conditions. Burpee Recommends: Spider mites may be controlled with a forceful spray of water every other day. Try hot pepper wax or insecticidal soap. Check with your Cooperative Extension Service for miticide recommendations.

Thrips: Thrips are tiny needle-thin insects that are black or straw colored. They suck the juices of plants and attack flower petals, leaves and stems. The plant will have a stippling, discolored flecking or silvering of the leaf surface. Thrips can spread many diseases from plant to plant. Burpee Recommends: Many thrips may be repelled by sheets of aluminum foil spread between rows of plants. Remove weeds from the bed and remove debris from the bed after frost. Check with your Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls.

Whitefly: These are small white flying insects that often rise up in a cloud when plants are disturbed or brushed against. Burpee Recommends: They are difficult to control without chemicals. Try hot pepper wax or insecticidal soap. Check with your Cooperative Extension Service for pesticide recommendations.

FAQ

Should I start my Blue Eyed Daisy indoors or outdoors? Blue Eyed Daisy may be started indoors or directly in the garden. If you have good conditions for growing them indoors, such as plant lights and a heat mat for germination, then you can get a head start by starting them indoors. Blue Eye Daisies are easy to direct sow and bloom fairly quickly from seed, so direct sowing may be a better option for some gardeners.

Why are my Blue Eyed Daisies tall and thin with much smaller flowers than expected? If Blue Eyed Daises are planted too closely together they will produce tall plants and much smaller flowers. Always follow the recommended spacing on the planting instructions. 

Are Blue Eyed Daisies deer resistant? Yes, deer generally avoid Blue Eyed Daisies, however if you have a lot of deer and not much food deer will eat almost anything.

Can I plant Blue Eyed Daises in containers? Yes, they are container perfect! Use a good commercial potting mix.

Are Blue Eyed Daises good pollinator plants? Yes, they attract butterflies and bees to your garden.