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Buy Any 3 Fruit or Berry Plants & Save 20%

Short Description

A red raspberry-blackberry cross.

Full Description

Large, dark wine red berries ripen from July to September. Widely grown in Oregon and Washington, it is a vigorous, trailing plant that is thornless and easy to grow. A favorite for making syrup, preserves and desserts.
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Item # Product
Item#: 19887
Order: 1 Plant
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Product properties

Zone This refers to the USDA hardiness zone assigned to each part of the country, based on the minimum winter temperature that a region typically experiences. Hardiness zone ranges are provided for all perennial plants and you should always choose plants that fall within your range.


Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

12-24 inches

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

96-120 inches

Life Cycle This refers to whether a plant is an annual, biennial or perennial. Annuals complete their life cycles in one year; biennials produce foliage the first year and bloom and go to seed the second year; perennials can live for more than two years.


Growth Habit The genetic tendency of a plant to grow in a certain shape, such as vining or bush like.


Plant Shipping Information

Plants begin shipping on:

Sep 12, 2016

(Click here for fall shipping schedule)


Item 19887 cannot ship to: AA, AE, AK, AP, AS, CN, FM, GU, HI, MH, MP, PR, PW, VI
See all Burpee plant shipping restrictions for your state

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since 1876


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Fall Planted Fruits
Fall is an ideal time to plant fruit plants. Plants will establish strong root systems and get a jump on spring growth.
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Growing Raspberries
Learn how to plant and grow raspberries from Burpee's expert horticulturist.
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  • Raspberries may be planted as bare root or potted plants.
  • Choose a well-drained, sunny location with no standing water. Prepare the soil before planting by mixing compost or other organic matter in with the soil. Work the soil deeply.
  • Space canes 3 feet apart in rows 6 feet apart. Dig each hole to twice the size of the root mass.
  • Plant black and purple varieties 100 feet away from red and yellow varieties.

Planting Bare Root Plants:

  • Before planting, trim very long or broken roots.
  • Cut back top growth to 6 inches.
  • Set roots 1-3 inches deeper than formerly grown.
  • Back fill with loose soil. Gently press soil in around the root ball. Transplants need good root-to-soil contact. Do not press too hard because that can cause soil compaction and root damage.
  • Gently water around the root ball to settle the soil and drive out air pockets.
  • After planting be sure to mark the plants with plant labels so you know where they are and what varieties they are.
  • Mulch with 2-3 inches of compost of pine needles to retain moisture and prohibit weed growth.

Planting Potted Plants:

  • Set the plant in the hole at the same depth as it was growing in the pot.
  • Backfill the hole and press firmly around the base of the planting.
  • Water deeply. The water will seal off any air pockets around the root ball.
  • After planting be sure to mark the plants with plant labels so you know where they are and what varieties they are. 
  • Mulch with 2-3 inches of compost of pine needles to retain moisture and prohibit weed growth.
  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients. Control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
  • Add mulch each year as needed.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1-2" of rain per week during the growing season. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
  • In the spring, before leaves sprout, apply a granular fertilizer such as Garden-tone following the instructions on the label. Most new growth will come from the plant’s crown under the soil. Plants use a lot of energy in spring when growth begins, so do not let plants dry out.
  • Remove all wild brambles near cultivated varieties to prevent virus diseases.
  • Pruning Standard Raspberries:
    • Do not prune the first year EXCEPT to remove dead, damaged or diseased wood.
    • Each spring select 5 or 6 of the most vigorous new canes and cut them back to 30 inches tall. All other canes can be removed.
    • Remove and destroy canes immediately after they fruit in their second summer. They will not bear again.
    • Add a summer topping to encourage side shoots off the canes to the pruning done in early spring and after harvest.  Pinch back 3-4 inches off shoots up to 2 inches tall.
    • Pruning Everbearing Raspberries:
      • Do not prune the first year EXCEPT to remove dead, damaged or diseased wood.
      • Each spring select 5 or 6 of the most vigorous new canes and cut them back to 30 inches tall.  All other NEW canes can be removed.
      • Do not remove last year’s fruiting canes- they will fruit again in early summer. Pinch back 3-4 inches off their lateral branches.
      • Expect new canes to fruit in the fall of their first year and in early summer of their second year.
      • Remove and destroy old canes immediately after their second fruit in early summer of their second year.  They will not bear again.
  • Monitor for Pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area. Click here to find your local branch.
  • Cane fruits may need support to help prevent against wind damage and make for easier harvest. Tie canes to wire that is strung parallel between two posts at either end of the row. 
  • Raspberries ripen on the plant at different times through the season in summer. Berries ripen quickly and are highly perishable. Pick frequently and discard berries that have rotted on the canes to prevent diseases.
  • Hold the berry carefully between your thumb and forefinger and pull. Berries are ripe when they are easily pulled from the core without getting squashed. At their ripest and sweetest, berries are plump and turn the deepest color, depending on the color of the variety.
  • Expect to harvest at least twice a week.
  • Keep berries in a shallow container, around 3 berries deep. Quickly cool berries in a refrigerator after picking. Properly stored, berries can keep for 3-7 days
  • Raspberries may be frozen or used for preserves.
Full Sun
12-24 inches
96-120 inches
Life Cycle
Growth Habit
Food Use
Edible Fruit, Pie, Sauce
Ornamental Use
Beds, Borders
Planting Time
Fall, Spring
Loganberry is rated 2.0 out of 5 by 5.
Rated 3 out of 5 by from ?Zone 9? The Loganberry plants I purchased this past spring indicated they would grow in Zones 6 thru 9. Of the plants I received two (2) died and the others are struggling. I live in Zone 8b (Navarre, Florida) where the summers reach mid-90's in the summer with cooler temps in the winter. I have 15 blackberry and 30 blueberry plants that are doing well; although they were planted in the spring of 2015. I planted 15 raspberry plants in the spring of 2015 -- all of them died; so, I decided to try the Loganberry plant based on its growth zones. In conclusion, I am tending to all my plants in the same manner as the Loganberry plants and the others are making much better progress -- so, I suspect the Florida Panhandle heat is the culprit. I can't lay entire blame on this company or others that don't have a brick-and-mortar store in my Zone, but would suggest they do more research, and buyers to use caution if living in a neighboring Zone.
Date published: 2016-09-15
Rated 1 out of 5 by from loganberries Arrived dry and deal last spring and I tried to baby them, but no,luck.
Date published: 2016-09-15
Rated 2 out of 5 by from Difficult to grow from cane... I purchased two dormant canes in early Spring, and neither of them sprouted or showed any signs of life. Burpee issued me replacements for each, one of which eventually sprouted and grew somewhat, while the other did not. This is in the same area where the Joan J raspberries I also bought are doing beautifully; the one loganberry that did emerge has done poorly by comparison. I should also note that potential buyers should be aware that this variety does have thorns, so if you are looking for a thornless variety, this is not it.
Date published: 2016-09-15
Rated 3 out of 5 by from Loganberry never grew. Hello, The loganberry never grew at all, nothing. Most of the other raspberry plants grew, 3 or 4 got off to a good start but died.
Date published: 2016-09-15
Rated 1 out of 5 by from Little sticks I got this product at the beginning of the season and it arrived as 3 little sticks with roots but no upper growth. I planted them right away following the directions but they never did anything. Just maintained their stick state. :(
Date published: 2016-08-20
  • 2016-10-20T06:19CST
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