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Hardy Kiwi Gardening Guide

How to Plant Hardy Kiwi

Upon arrival, check containers for moisture, if not moist to the touch, add water and allow the containers to drain. If you are not ready to plant, keep plants in a semi-shaded and protected area. Do try and plant as soon as possible, the sooner in the ground, the sooner roots will be made. Until planting, keep the soil moist to the touch; do not allow the containers to dry out.

When planting, dig the hole at least 11/2 to 2 times the size of the container. Planting height is important, attempt to set the plant in the hole at the exact depth of the soil in the pot, it’s better to be a 1/2 high, than a 1/2 low. When you back-fill the hole, if your soil is good, use that soil, but if you feel your soil can be improved, back-fill with a good organic soil or compost. If your soil tends to dry out, you can add a little peat moss, if your soil is moist, a little sand can be added.

Caring For Hardy Kiwi

The first year is a year to make roots; growth will be slow as plant becomes established. Fertilizer can be supplied as compost applied as a top dress that will provide all the nutrition needed. If you feel plants are off-color, use an organic liquid fertilizer.

Kiwi benefit from having their roots mulched, it provides a more constant soil temperature for the roots to grow. Mulch can be bark or compost.

Kiwis prefer a good root zone soaking rather than daily misting. Soil being moist to the touch is a good indicator. In winter, protect the root zone with a good application of at least 4-6" of mulch or compost. Winter is the best time to prune, follow the same schedule and technique as for a grape vine. The female needs precise accurate pruning; the male can be pruned with less discipline.

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Gardening Tip of the Day

  • If you received a flowering amaryllis plant for the holidays, you can make it bloom again next year around the holiday time.

    After the flowers fade, cut just the flower stalk to about 2 inches above the soil level. Continue watering when soil becomes dry. Regularly fertilize the plant with a houseplant formula such as 5-5-5 or 5-10-5 following directions on the fertilizer package. After about six months of allowing the foliage to grow, stop fertilizing and begin to reduce watering over a 2- to 3-week period. After this period, stop watering. Eliminating water and fertilizer allows the bulb to enter a dormant or resting phase. Move the pot to a dry, cool (50 to 60 degrees F.) room that has good ventilation for 2 to 3 months.

    Sometime in early November, move the pot to a bright, warm spot and renew watering. In anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks, the amaryllis should flower again.