Snapdragon, Tutti Frutti
Fun color, great for cutting too.
Ornamental Use null
Life Cycle null
Sow Method null
Bloom Duration null
Plant Shipping Information
Snapdragons may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or from potted plants.
Sowing Seed Indoors:
- Sow snapdragon seeds indoors 12 weeks before last frost using a seed starting kit.
- Sow seeds thinly and barely press into seed starting formula do not cover with soil.
- Keep the soil moist at 65 degrees, as snapdragons prefer cooler soil so do not use bottom heat.
- Seedlings emerge in 8-14 days.
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Thin to one seedling per cell when they have two sets of leaves.
- To encourage better branching, pinch the tops off when the seedlings reach 3-4 inches tall.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- Transplant hardened-off seedlings to the garden after the last heavy frost. Snapdragons can tolerate light frost.
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
Planting Potted Plants in the Garden:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich, well-drained, moist organic soil.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones.
- Most plants respond well to soils amended with organic matter. Compost is a wonderful form of organic matter with a good balance of nutrients and an ideal pH level, it can be added to your planting area at any time. If compost is not available, top dress the soil after planting with 1-2 inches of organic mulch, which will begin to breakdown into compost. After the growing season, a soil test will indicate what soil amendments are needed for the following season.
- Plants should stand 6 to 12 inches apart in the garden.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
- Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker.
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For annuals an organic mulch of shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
- Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Plants need about 1 inch of rain per week during the growing season. Use a rain gauge to check to see if you need to add water. It's best to water with a drip or trickle system that delivers water at low pressure at the soil level. If you water with overhead sprinklers, water early in the day so the foliage has time to dry off before evening, to minimize disease problems. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
- Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
- After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer such as Flower-tone, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
- Taller varieties may require staking.
- Remove spent flower spikes to encourage flowering and prevent seed development. Pinching the growing tips of plants can encourage bushiness. Snapdragons make terrific cut flowers, and cutting the flowers encourages new blooms.
- Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
- Remove plants after they are killed by frost in fall to avoid disease issues the following year.
- Snapdragons bloom best in well-drained, moist soil, in cool late-spring or early-summer temperatures. They can tolerate light shade but bloom much better in full sun.
- Snapdragons tend to stop producing flowers when hot weather arrives, but they will usually re-bloom when the weather cools off in late summer if you cut back the spent flower stalks.
- Snapdragons are available in a broad range of heights, so they may be used in many ways in the garden. Small cultivars work well as an annual ground cover, as an edging, or in pots or window boxes. The spiky form of taller cultivars adds an attractive accent to annual and mixed borders.
- Tall snapdragon cultivars also make remarkably long-lived cut flowers
SunFull SunHeight12-16 inchesSpread6-8 inchesOrnamental UseBeds, ContainerLife CycleAnnualSow MethodIndoor SowFloweringtrueBloom Duration9
Snapdragon, Tutti Frutti is rated out of 5 by 7.Rated 5 out of 5 by CherieFromChester from Germination bonanza I was really surprised to read some reviews here that said they had a low germination rate on these seeds. My seeds went like gangbusters, and if it wasn't 100%, it was really close. I just sprinkled them on the top of those seed starter sponges on a 60 unit bio dome and off they went. Once they sprouted I opened the vents on the bio dome and soon thereafter took the biodome lid off altogether and put them under a grow light. I transplanted them outside when they were close to 3". I didn't harden off as much as you're supposed to, and we still did get some overnight temps in the upper 20s. They're thriving. I was going to wait till I got blooms before reviewing, but just had to say something about my experience with germination, since it was so prolific. I'm not some garden guru, either. Maybe beginner's luck? This was my first time starting seeds indoors. Picture show how they are doing now, first week of May after starting them inside end of Feb. These are in a pot. Others in my garden soil look similar.Date published: 2014-05-03Rated 1 out of 5 by Stansongman from Dud Germination was not good, I got 3 seedlings out of the entire packet. Disappointing.Date published: 2014-04-28Rated 1 out of 5 by MistyLH from No joy Germination rate was good, but seedlings were weak and all died when transplanted from ultimate growing system pods.Date published: 2014-04-21Rated 4 out of 5 by GrumpstHR from Great Germ Rate and Individual Specimens Never had any issue with the seeds germinating and they were both heat and cold hardy plants. Agreeable when transplanted as well. I agree with another reviewer that the coloration was not always as striking as in the pictures here. But, as promised, each plant was different. Placed into narrow containers they grew quite tall. With a support, they acted and looked a lot like an orchid. My favorite Burpee product so far and the reason I claim snaps my favorite in general. Pic is of my favorite plant in the bunch.Date published: 2013-12-28Rated 5 out of 5 by Nevets from One Tough Plant I planted these this past year and they a very good germination rate. The flowers weren't quite as speckled a the picture shows; I would more call it flecks of color. Still they're gorgeous and have a nice bushy habit if you deadhead regularly. They didn't slow too much in the heat of summer either. And perhaps most impressive is how cold hardy they are. They bloomed through the first week of November in zone 5a. Admittedly it was a mild autumn but they handled temperatures into the low to mid twenties without a problem.Date published: 2011-02-15Rated 5 out of 5 by Anonymous from Lots of Speckles! I got five with speckles in spite of a low germination rate, probably due to the crazy weather we had Deep in the Midwest in 2008. Had a yellow with red speckles, a red with yellow stripes, and a white with purple blotches, and a few others not so colorful. I'd expect some single colors in harlequin mixes like this. I'll definitely try it again!Date published: 2008-10-16Rated 1 out of 5 by rram6 from No Speckles I ordered this seed and started some plants this past spring and none of my snapdragons have any speckles. Would not try this seed again.Date published: 2007-07-03