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Marigold, Cottage Red

Short Description

Unusual marigold, discovered in Mexico.

Full Description

We love the loose, airy feeling of this tall, billowy marigold. It suggests the informality of a cottage garden. The color is a clear red that's really eye-catching.
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Item#: 39968A
Order: 1 Pkt. (50 seeds)
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$4.95
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Product properties

Sun The amount of sunlight this product needs daily in order to perform well in the garden. Full sun means 6 hours of direct sun per day; partial sun means 2-4 hours of direct sun per day; shade means little or no direct sun.

Full Sun

Height The typical height of this product at maturity.

30 inches

Spread The width of the plant at maturity.

8 inches

Ornamental Use Ways in which the product may be used in the garden for ornamental effect.

Beds, Borders

Life Cycle This refers to whether a plant is an annual, biennial or perennial. Annuals complete their life cycles in one year; biennials produce foliage the first year and bloom and go to seed the second year; perennials can live for more than two years.

Annual

Sow Method This refers to whether the seed should be sown early indoors and the seedlings transplanted outside later, or if the seed should be sown directly in the garden at the recommended planting time.

Direct Sow/Indoor Sow

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Video

Annuals Tour #1
Take a garden tour and see favorite annual plants in a garden setting. In this video- Zinnia, Angelonia, Marigold, Petunia, Celosia and Vinca.
Watch video

Marigold may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or sown directly in the garden after frost, or from potted plants.

Sowing Seed Indoors:

  • Sow indoors 4-6 weeks before the last frost using a seed starting kit
  • Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed starting soil
  • Keep the soil moist at 70-75 degrees
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days
  • As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
  • Thin to one seedling per cell when they have two sets of leaves.
  • Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
  • Transplant hardened-off seedlings to the garden after the frost.
  • Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning.  This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Sowing Directly in the Garden

  • Direct sow seeds in average soil in full sun after all danger of frost. In frost free areas, sow from fall to early spring. In the Deep South, a spot that receives shade during the afternoon helps protect plants from excessive heat. 
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones. 
  • Most plants respond well to soils amended with organic matter. Compost is a wonderful form of organic matter with a good balance of nutrients and an ideal pH level, it can be added to your planting area at any time. If compost is not available, top dress the soil after planting with 1-2 inches of organic mulch, which will begin to breakdown into compost. After the growing season, a soil test will indicate what soil amendments are needed for the following season.
  • Sow seeds about 6 inches apart and cover with ¼ inch of fine soil.
  • Firm soil lightly, water and keep evenly moist.
  • Seedlings emerge in 7-14 days.
  • Thin plants to stand 9-12 inches when seedlings are 1 inch high.

Planting Potted Plants:

  • Select a location in full sun with good rich, moist, well drained organic soil. In the deep South, a spot that receives shade during the afternoon helps protect plants from excessive heat. 
  • Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 8 inches. Level with a rake to remove clumps of grass and stones. 
  • Most plants respond well to soils amended with organic matter. Compost is a wonderful form of organic matter with a good balance of nutrients and an ideal pH level, it can be added to your planting area at any time. If compost is not available, top dress the soil after planting with 1-2 inches of organic mulch, which will begin to breakdown into compost. After the growing season, a soil test will indicate what soil amendments are needed for the following season.
  • Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
  • Set level with the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand leaving a slight depression around the plant to hold water.
  • Water thoroughly, so that a puddle forms in the saucer you have created. This settles the plants in, drives out air pockets and results in good root-to-soil contact.
  • Use the plant tag as a location marker.
  • Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their seeds from germinating.
  • Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For annuals an organic mulch of shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
  • Keep plants well-watered during the growing season, especially during dry spells. Watering during dry spells will improve flowering--although it will produce lots of succulent leaves.
  • Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
  • After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer such as Flower-tone, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
  • Deadhead marigolds to keep them flowering from late spring until frost.
  • Monitor for pests and diseases. Check with your local Cooperative Extension Service for pest controls recommended for your area.
  • Remove plants after they are killed by frost in fall to avoid disease issues the following year.
  • Add marigolds to sunny beds, borders and containers. Plant marigolds with both sun-loving annuals and perennials in your garden. Marigolds combine well with lavenders, salvias or sages, cosmos, daylilies, coreopsis, and nasturtium. 
  • Marigolds are frequently planted among vegetable crops to prevent pest and disease problems. 
  • Many shorter marigold varieties are great for containers.
Sun
Full Sun
Height
30 inches
Spread
8 inches
Ornamental Use
Beds, Borders
Life Cycle
Annual
Sow Method
Direct Sow/Indoor Sow
Flowering
true
Bloom Duration
12
Marigold, Cottage Red is rated 4.0 out of 5 by 4.
Rated 2 out of 5 by from NOT red or I'm a monkey's uncle This was a disappointment as I'd hoped for red. When a blossom of my Cottage Red was put beside the usual marigolds I've grown for years which are orangey and brown, it was the exact same shade. The only difference was they are single petalled. And they are rangy in growth habit, not compact. see picture of my "Cottage Red" (single petal) beside common orange/brown marigold (multi-petal) in a vase.
Date published: 2013-06-22
Rated 5 out of 5 by from Gorgeous! An easy grower. Floaty ferny foliage that both stands up and drapes over the sides of containers with flowers on long curving swan neck stems. Flowers are a striking russet red with an incandescent yellow piping on the very edges of the petals, and when pinched just keep going and going and going. I had no problems with insects without pesticides with the exception of japanese beetles, which a nice session with a pair of pliers deals with effectively. I can't emphasize enough the airy, delicate, and yet bold beauty of these flowers.
Date published: 2012-02-18
Rated 4 out of 5 by from Beautiful, Unique I have tried to grow these flowers before, but for whatever reason, I never ended up with the cute little red flowers pictured above, I think I got a mix-up batch...that is until last year. I had some Hutterite friends start the plants for me, and I put them in the ground. These marigolds I raised in South Dakota, and they didn't require much love or care to become tall, billowy, attention-grabbing flora. They don't have large flowers, but the color and unique look of the plants makes up for it. They have curvy stems on the flowers that lie there gracefully like poetry. Life imitates art in this case. I will grow these again this year.
Date published: 2011-01-20
Rated 5 out of 5 by from To-Die-For Red Marigolds I love these plants! They survive our hot humid summers and really come to life when the temperatures drop below 90 in SEP, producing plenty of bright red flowers until frost does them in sometime in mid-to-late NOV. A few have even self-sown. I have grown these marigolds for 4 or 5 years and have never noticed any pest problems. They are immune to mildew. They don't suffer from occasional drought and don't mind that I never fertilize them. Flower size is somewhat small, but the plants spread out and produce lots of blossoms which contrast nicely with the dark green foliage. If you want a brilliant warm red in your late-summer garden, you won't do better.
Date published: 2011-01-06
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