Harvest and Cooking
George's Secret Tomato Sauces | George Ball Jr.
George Ball Jr. with Burpee Tomato George's Burpee Tomato Sauce Heronswood Voice
A weblog by George Ball

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GEORGE'S BURPEE TOMATO SAUCE

Ingredients:
20-25 Big Mama Tomatoes full sized and ripe, stems removed
3-4 Bunches Celery (chopped fine)
3-4 Yellow Onions (chopped fine)
8 Cloves Garlic (chopped fine)
6 Yellow Cayenne Peppers (or 10 slightly hot Italian grilling peppers) (chopped fine)
3-4 Habanero Peppers

Method
Chop above ingredients (except tomatoes) on a cutting board. Put tomatoes in a large pot and cover with water. Bring tomatoes to a boil and quickly lower heat to simmer. When skins begin to loosen (5 minutes), remove from heat and let stand for 45 minutes and drain most of the water. When tomatoes are cool enough to handle, remove skins. Big Mama has a very thin skin that peels off easily. No coring is necessary. Hand remove the few seeds that may be present. Pile segments up into a large saucepan. Set on simmer, and stir often. Meanwhile, cover bottom of a sauté or fry pan with extra virgin olive oil. I use either Pompeian or Dal Raccolto (Sicilian) or Alessi. Heat oil on lowest flame or setting, then add celery. Sauté for 15 minutes, then add onions and saute for another 15 minutes or until pieces begin to "clear" and then add peppers and simmer. After stirring and simmering for 20-30 minutes on lowest heat possible, add garlic and simmer and stir slowly for about 5 minutes. Add freshly ground pepper and sea salt. By this time, the tomatoes have simmered for about an hour. Now pour sautéed mixture of vegetables into large saucepan of simmering tomatoes. Pour in the remnant "tomato water" from the peel soak. Simmer, stirring frequently for 6-7 hours, or until texture is uniformly thick and saucy. Do not ever raise heat above simmer or low, whichever is lowest.

Note: If you dislike Habanero, try 3-4 Hot Lemon, a smoky and fruity hot pepper that is milder. Also, whenever you use garlic, you must use at least one hot pepper.



GEORGE'S SPICY TOMATO SAUCE

Ingredients:
30-40 Tomatoes (Use 1/3 Big Mama, 1/3 Brandy Boy and 1/3 Sweet Tangerine)
2-3 Bunches Celery (Chopped very fine)
3-4 Large Yellow Onions (Chopped very fine)
5-6 Yellow Cayenne Peppers at greenish yellow stage
2-4 Habanero Peppers (Orange)
2-4 Thai Peppers (you may use Hot Lemon or Big Red)

Method
Put tomatoes in a saucepan and cover with water. Bring tomatoes to a very short boil and lower heat to simmer. When skins begin to loosen, remove from heat and let stand on trivet for 20-25 minutes and drain most of the water, leaving 1-2" in the bottom. When tomatoes are cool enough to handle, do not remove skins. No coring or peeling is necessary. The skins of these tomatoes are not only very thin but very tasty as well. Put tomatoes into a blender adding a little "tomato water" each time and blend low to medium speed. Pour into a large saucepan until 3/4 full, and repeat with another large saucepan. Meanwhile cover bottom of a saute pan with olive oil. Use Pompeian extra virgin olive oil or Sicilian Dal Raccolto or Alessi. Heat oil and add celery. Saute for 15 minutes over low heat, then add onions and continue simmering to another 15 minutes and add hot and mildly hot peppers. Add fresh ground pepper and fresh ground sea salt. After simmering for 1-1/2 hours, add a little more of the tomato water that you have cooked the tomatoes in. Add this mixture to the tomato sauce and simmer for 6-6 1/2 hours, stirring frequently and adding a little more oil to your taste. Sauce will be ready when it gels more than waters on your large spoon.

Note: The secret of a truly fresh tomato sauce, using just picked garden tomatoes - including some that are very sweet - is never to use garlic, basil or parsley. They will mask completely the tomato sugars. Both the hot and the mildly hot peppers, onions and celery, salt and black pepper do not. Rather, they complement the fresh tomato taste perfectly when used with some restraint and chopped fine.



Heronswood Voice
A weblog by George Ball
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